Next Saturday is midnight madness again.i think I'm gonna install my c5 electric fans and empty my trunk/hatch and remove my spare and see if I can dip into the 15s

 

Only go with no more than 1/4 tank of gas also. -100 lbs = .1 drop in et typically.

Find out what rpm a stock 4.3 makes max hp/torque at and try to be at that rpm going through the traps. If it is right you should basically shift at the 1320 mark. Either top of third or top of fourth. I am sure somebody on here knows the specs.

When you see the last yellow light let her rip. By the time the truck gets moving the green will light and you should cut a sub .600 light. Basically count the yellow lights. 1,2,3 go. (For consistency always turn on the first stage light and then slowly creep foreword until the second light comes on and stop immediately) It won't help your et but if whoever your racing cuts a bad light and runs close to your time they won't catch/pass you until your way down the track.

Man I so miss racing.

 

Thanks for the tips yea I ran that suburban twice and he was always a half a car in front of me he always got to the line first and was killing my take off because midnight madness is heads up racing by the time I creep to the line and try and launch its already go time.what rpm should I launch at given that it is a all stock motor with the 3.42s?i found some typhoon manifolds and cross over pipe on the Austin craigslist I might just have to go get them but 500 bucks??idk if that's a good price or not

 

Tip: drive AROUND the water, back up til youre NOT in the water, cause water in your wheel well really raises your 60'times
Tip: remove front sway bar and shocks but be VERRY careful at the turn out.
Tip: when index racing go deep if your on a pro tree.

 

Ok cool and the front sway bar and shocks are just a weight reduction or is there a bigger reason behind this??its not that hard to remove just 6 bolts or something like that.when you say go deep are talking about the Rpms I launch from??thanks lewhite

 

Yes I saw that when I looked at your slip/video. If you could shave .2 to .25 you might have beat him at the big end. If he stages first than that gives you the advantage of not staging until your ready. You get to decide when to start the race. I prefer the tree to be on my left. For some reason it seems easier to watch the lights.

Ideally you would launch around max torque the engine makes but that probably isn't a good idea with a stock clutch. I would try to launch it as high as possible w/o spinning the tires or smoking your clutch. If I had to guess it would be around 1500-1800 but that might be a bit much for regular tires. What rpm did you launch at?

Freeing up the exhaust is always a good thing. As far as the typhoon manifolds I wouldn't buy them unless somebody knows for a fact they flow better than what you got and they fit. You might be able to buy headers for it cheaper.

Oh yeah, I wouldn't run back to back times with a stock clutch. Give it some time to cool between runs. Years ago I learned the hard way!

 

1) Driving around the water is a good idea, but not necessary, but the water does make it easier to smoke your tires and that makes it easier on your clutch. Try to skip the burnout altogether. That starting line is real sticky and you might not have traction issues.

2) No need to remove shocks/sway bar. This helps transfer weight to the rear tires. Normally reserved for high horse power cars/trucks. Do that when you have a 500hp small block between the wheel wells.

3) You won't see a pro tree on grudge night. If some promods show up they will see a pro tree. Don't worry about staging deep at this point. Try the procedure I told you and adjust your "go" time by the reaction time of your previous run. The most important thing is staging consistently. Deep staging puts your front tires closer to tripping the start clocks.

Here is why I am telling you to stage and count.

The 3 amber lights march down in a .5 second sequence with the green coming on .5 second after the last amber.
You leave on the last amber because it will take your truck about .5 seconds to move enough to trip the start clock. A lot happens in that .5 seconds before green. It will take a few times but you will understand. You may even red light a few times.
I had a car that when I staged, as I told you to do, I would leave at the moment the last yellow went out so it was basically when the yellow was out but the green wasn't on. I could consistently cut sub .52 lights all day IF everything else went right, mostly traction. This was when I was actually bracket racing.

 

Thanks CAB that helps and pretty much sums up the questions I had thanks.i can't wait to have 500 horses lol.there was a newer s10 out there running 12.4s and drove it there there what I would like a 12 second blazer

 

Yup Cab maybe I got a little over enthusiastic about the tips coming from 6.30 altered experance (check my page). Removing the sway and shocks did lower the 60' on my C6 vette, but it doesnt have ANY forward traction!

 

Lol yea I'm putting around compared to that like a stand still