Front Coil-over Shock Mod
#11
12-09-2012, 02:35 AM
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 136
The amount of lift doesn't have anything to do with the t-bars or adding coil overs. Factory s-series are limited to 2-2.5 inches by design. Its the bind the cv axles and ball joints are put into past that. Heck most of the time the factory bars and keys are well able to get 3-3.5 and maybe more lift if you like replacing parts weekly/monthly. Add to it none of the shock mounts are really designed to support the weight of the truck lifting it like that.
I had a 88 reg cab I got to resale a few years back a PO done this to to try to get some extra lift. After I got the truck for $200 with a wiped front end and replacing everything damaged (total frontend rebuild) I didn't see any gains leaving the coil overs compared to my blazer with only a 2.5 crank on the factory designed front. He had also tried to use coil overs on the rear to lift it and they had cracked or tore loose all kinds of stuff. Took longer than I expected to fix but the easiest $2400 I ever made on a flip. I only spent $400 fixing it, first offer was 3k and he took it home.
I had a 88 reg cab I got to resale a few years back a PO done this to to try to get some extra lift. After I got the truck for $200 with a wiped front end and replacing everything damaged (total frontend rebuild) I didn't see any gains leaving the coil overs compared to my blazer with only a 2.5 crank on the factory designed front. He had also tried to use coil overs on the rear to lift it and they had cracked or tore loose all kinds of stuff. Took longer than I expected to fix but the easiest $2400 I ever made on a flip. I only spent $400 fixing it, first offer was 3k and he took it home.
My reasons for adapting a coil-over shock for use on my 4x4 2003 Blazer had nothing to do with trying to achieve lift. All my intent was, was to achieve a better ride, which was the end result of this project. I agree that the shock mounts on the lower control arms and the upper mount wasn't designed to carry the body weight. My torsion bars still do the majority of that job. What "in my opinion" these coil-overs have done is to take away the bouncy, spongy ride that I was experiencing when I raised the front end to almost the same ride height as the rear "stock" height. It most likely rode with a floating feel because when the T-bars are cranked higher than stock height, it lifts the chassis/bump-stop off of the lower control arm.
With that said, I'm very pleased with the improved ride on the HWY, during my daily commute. It now rides as well as it did when it rolled off the lot, back in 03. This application was not intended to raise the front end higher. That's why I've got the coil-overs set to the lowest adjustment setting.
#13
12-09-2012, 11:31 AM
My reasons for adapting a coil-over shock for use on my 4x4 2003 Blazer had nothing to do with trying to achieve lift. All my intent was, was to achieve a better ride, which was the end result of this project. I agree that the shock mounts on the lower control arms and the upper mount wasn't designed to carry the body weight. My torsion bars still do the majority of that job. What "in my opinion" these coil-overs have done is to take away the bouncy, spongy ride that I was experiencing when I raised the front end to almost the same ride height as the rear "stock" height. It most likely rode with a floating feel because when the T-bars are cranked higher than stock height, it lifts the chassis/bump-stop off of the lower control arm.
With that said, I'm very pleased with the improved ride on the HWY, during my daily commute. It now rides as well as it did when it rolled off the lot, back in 03. This application was not intended to raise the front end higher. That's why I've got the coil-overs set to the lowest adjustment setting.
With that said, I'm very pleased with the improved ride on the HWY, during my daily commute. It now rides as well as it did when it rolled off the lot, back in 03. This application was not intended to raise the front end higher. That's why I've got the coil-overs set to the lowest adjustment setting.
I will add if I was you I'd still watch that front shock mounts. Even on the lowest setting coil overs produce much more stress than a regular shock. I would have it welded up and gusseted before you wind up doing repair work.
Last edited by neo71665; 12-09-2012 at 11:38 AM.
#14
12-09-2012, 11:55 AM
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 136
Look and see who my reply was to and their question before you feel the need to defend yourself.
I will add if I was you I'd still watch that front shock mounts. Even on the lowest setting coil overs produce much more stress than a regular shock. I would have it welded up and gusseted before you wind up doing repair work.
I will add if I was you I'd still watch that front shock mounts. Even on the lowest setting coil overs produce much more stress than a regular shock. I would have it welded up and gusseted before you wind up doing repair work.
#15
02-13-2013, 10:56 PM
ok this is something im gonna attempt; i have procomp es9000 shocks on the front and they work good and i have torsion keys installed and cranked all the way for my lift. im running 31 inch tires and ive done some extensive fender trimming. im rubbing the fenders still if i go over some bumps turning and i belive my torsion bars are sagged beyong belif. im gonna add these shocks in support to help raise the front end a bit and take some of the stresss of the torsion bars and give it a better ride and better height. ill reinforce the shock tower by welding it up on the sides
#16
02-14-2013, 10:32 AM
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 136
ok this is something im gonna attempt; i have procomp es9000 shocks on the front and they work good and i have torsion keys installed and cranked all the way for my lift. im running 31 inch tires and ive done some extensive fender trimming. im rubbing the fenders still if i go over some bumps turning and i belive my torsion bars are sagged beyong belif. im gonna add these shocks in support to help raise the front end a bit and take some of the stresss of the torsion bars and give it a better ride and better height. ill reinforce the shock tower by welding it up on the sides
Be sure to use a vice to hold the shock mount sleeve while drilling, so your drill bit doesn't bite and try to spin the sleeve out of the rubber bushing.
Spray the sleeve with WD40 while drilling. It's gonna get hot and ya don't wanna burn up your drill bit in the process. I had a bucket next to me with water in it. Every time the sleeve started to get hot I'd dip it in the bucket to cool it down, and then continued. If it gets too hot the rubber bushing could melt.
Other than that it's not too difficult.
Take some pics. I'd love to see how yours turns out.
I'm still very pleased with mine. Huge improvement in the ride.
#17
02-14-2013, 11:02 AM
This seems like a really good idea, i think someone else tried this before or was going to but i didn't see anything else so thank you for doing the write up! My only concern is The shock mounting strength like neo mentioned. Im sure it would be fine stock but it's not one of those things you want to have fail when you hit a bump doing 60. A little time playing with the welder should fix that tho.
