1993 S10 BLAZER 4X4 CPI Electrical and Transmission Problems - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

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Old 01-27-2010, 08:54 AM
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Red face 1993 S10 BLAZER 4X4 CPI Electrical and Transmission Problems

Desperately seeking Help!

I recently bought my Blazer for $200 in December of 2009. I knew it had problems when I bought it, but it ran. I knew it was going to be a project car. It ran very rich and was a gas hog. It blew slack smoke and for sure was not going to pass smog.

I started by changing the oil (turned black quickly, but have not changed since O2 sensor replacement), replaced battery, air filter, fuel filter, O2 sensor, serpentine belt, and put Lucas in the fuel and also used a transmission Lucas. A couple of weeks passed and the heater core went out. I tore down the whole entire dashboard and was told I could do it with only removing some items after the fact. I removed alot of previous stereo wiring. I did not have problems after that even with dash removed and wires just every where. I still have it that way do to complication of tearing down the dash. I been driving since.

I had it smogged to complete the transfer into my name on 1/19/10 and it PASSED! I was so excited. The very next day I noticed the new problems.

I turned on car to go to work very early in the morning and when I turned on the headlights the warning buzzer went on. I turned off lights and the buzzer turned off. I thought that was strange. I drove to work with the buzzer going off. I also noticed that the torque power was gone. It felt like it was stuck on 2nd gear. I drove on freeway and it felt like the RPM's were high. It did not shift into another gear. I drove about 40mph and left it at that. My battery drained completely on the 20th and got towed home. I noticed headlights getting dim before that and turn signal slow flashing. I had battery checked out(which I doubted since new) and the alternator. Both turned out fine. I then replaced the ignition switch, key cylinder(due to key jamming), and the key tab that lets the car know the key is inserted. Still had buzzer problem. I drove on Tuesday 26th and car left me stranded going to work. I had it towed again. It still had buzzer noise and transmission problem, but I was going to disconnect battery when I got to work. I know there is a short somewhere. I had battery and alternator checked out again at another store and still turned out fine.

Can you please help? I appreciate you reading through my story. Sorry if I do not respond quickly, but I do not have internet at home and can only access it at work before I start.

Thank YOU!!!!
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:03 PM
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Is it a vortec usually your buzzer only stays on when you cut it off and pull the key out of the switch with your head lights on did u check and see if there were any wires broke inside the steering column also Id check the headlight switch the running rich issue sounds like a fuel pressure regulator or line and nut kit or you might wanna take your egr off and clean it also is it giving any codes?
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:18 AM
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I do have a Vortec 4.3 CPI.

I haven't checked for broken wires in steering column.

The EGR valve looks brand new, I think the previous owner changed it to try to solve the rich fuel issue because he used to drive an hour to work and spend alot of money for gas.

It gives OBD I codes (I Believe) #44 and 42. I looked them up and one is for some kind of timing issue and the other is for voltage to O2 sensor being rich or low. Can't remember. These codes received after fixing items on original message and reseting the computer. I had problem of not knowing how to change the timing and I looked for the distributer hold down bolt and could not find, but I believe I found the the bolt tucked in under distributor rotor? Very hard to see due to being on back side of motor. I literally had to lay on motor just to take the distributor cap off.

Thanks for the feedback!!
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:32 PM
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Exclamation Same Exact problem

I have the same exact problem, the buzzer stays on, indicator lights are out, no power or torque, i was running a code 13 (o2 sensor) for months on end with no problems, driving home i came to a stop sign and heard the buzzer, i thought thats wierd then when i tried to go all power and torque were gone, i shifted into first and managed to limp it back to my apartment, when i would give it heavy throttle it would dog out, checked battery voltage w/engine running 11.96, checked with car off and surface charge removed, 11.60, then we got a 12.6 reading from the battery (dirty terminals) im thinking alternator went out? but why the buzzer noise and the power/fuel problem? Any help and did you fix it?
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:34 AM
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This sounds like the IGN/GAU fuse. This fuse controls the alternator charging, o2 sensor, transmission (with fuse blown, it forces 3rd gear. Awful for starting from a stop and high revs at highway speed), gauge lights, and the warning buzz for the key being in. This fuse used to blow on me every time I took it wheeling, got very frustrating.

Start by checking the fuse. it's a 20-amp located in the fuse box in the driver's side footwell and it is labeled IGN/GAU. After you replace the fuse or verify it is good, you need to start looking for the short.

My short (which is also the most common) was as the wiring harness leading to the trans goes between the firewall and the transmission. If you look down directly past the distributor, towards the underside of the car, you should see a big loomed harness running to the underside of the car, which is most likely pinched between the trans/firewall and causing your problem.

If you verify a pinched harness in there (even just a little bit), start by unplugging the o2 sensor, the large connector that goes into the transmission on the passenger side, and the small connector that goes into the transmission on the driver's side. Then you can pull some (but not all) of the harness back towards the top of the motor, which should net you enough room to see if there is any bare copper. The wire that is vital to the systems you are talking about is PINK/BLACK, but I found 17 bare/shorted wires when I got my harness visible.

Easiest way to repair is to get as much harness up from underneath the car (the large connector for the trans wouldn't fit between the trans/firewall for me. If you jack the trans maybe you could get it through, but you'll see it won't yield much help. Next, under the glove box inside the car you'll find where the harness comes into the car and to the ECU. Unplug it from the ECU and feed the harness/plug through the firewall into the engine bay. Next you can take the harness/plug and pull it up and over the exhaust manifolds, again moving towards the distributor. This will be as far as you can get the wiring, but should put the pinched wiring at about hood height, at the distributor. Now you can lean over the motor (or sit on the motor if your 130lbs soaking wet like I am) and start repairing your wire.

Re-install in the reverse order, and be sure to use a few zip ties to keep the harness towards the passenger side of the car where it goes between the trans/firewall. You'll see that as you go towards the passenger side, the gap gets bigger for the wiring harness. By keeping it towards that side, you should be clear of this problem forever.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I wish I had pictures from my repair....

Last edited by workshop4ever; 09-16-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:28 AM
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I just finished dealing with this fuse myself. It was indeed that wire loom on the left side of the distributor. My engine lift hook (you'll see it) was rubbing against the loom. Its hard to get in there,i used some liquid electrical tape and so far after 2 months its not blew again. it blew all the time before hand.
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