Hello BF,

i run into my 1st problem with my blazer since i got it.
the blazer is not my daily car but my winter car. so i dont drive it everyday.
in the past 3 days up here its humid outside and rained a bit.
so yesterday i decide to take my blazer to go shopping. its started without a problem.
when i took off the truck stalled everytime i was stopping with it, withHARD time to starting it back again.
i call a friend who said to spray some wd40 on the wires and drive back home holding the brake/gas pedal if i have to stop at a light.
i did make it home. when i parked it the engine dindt stalled at all. i same shut it off and re fire it up over and over.
later i took it back without any issue until i get back home where it stalled again!.

i search a bit on the forum what could be the problem without succes.

i want to try to change the wires/spark plug/rotor and cap distributor. should i start there?

i hear a buzzing noise come from the back when i put the ignition at on and when the truck is running... but do you think the fuel pump can be faulty?

i just want suggestion to try things before i to the garage for trying to save some money.

any links with picture to DIY will be apreciated.

Thanks!

 

yes i would start by looking at the spark plugs. if they look bad (black and corroded in any way) then i would say u have a fuel/spark problem.

the buzzing u hear when u turn the key to on is the fuel pump being turned on and sending pressure up to the injector.

let us know what the spark plugs look like and we can go from there

 

Replace the fuel filter. In-line filter:AC Delco GF652 ($16.13 + 1 hour labor)

If the new filterdoes not solve the problem, the fuel pump is failing. Fuel pump:AC Delco EP386 and strainer:AC Delco TS7 ($61.34 + 3 hr. labor)

 

It may not be a failing fuel pump it could be a number of reasons. Fuel pump pulsator is going, fuel pressure regulator, injection spider, nut kit, egr. I would start by getting a fuel pressure test and post up some numbers. They are supposed to be between like 57-62 psi.

 

The problem maymay be a combination of things.

Lets consider the fuel pump pressure regulator. The fuel pump pressure regulator on a 1992 - 1995 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer, 4.3L, Vin-W engine is an intergral part of the CPI (central port injection) assembly, which is commonly called "the spider." GM part number17113673, $291.83 + 4 hr. labor.

However, now there is an alternative to replacing the entire CPIif the fuel pump pressure regulator is bad. A fuel pump pressure regulator on a 1992 S-10 Blazer canbe replaced separately from the entire CPI.

Fuel pump regulator, 1992-1995 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer, 4.3L ,Vin-W engine: Dorman #55162 ($36.95 + 4 hr. labor)

 

One thing to note. If replacing it with the same design, the same problem can and often will occur down the road. The 96+ FPR is a much better design. Lindertech.com sells a retro fit kit that utilizes the much more robust FPR from the newer motors.

Another thing worth mentioning is that if the spider is removed, the "nut kit" (internal fuel lines) should be replaced. These lines do not like to be disturbed once used and will leak.

Now, about your problem. If spraying WD40 (water displacement, 40th attempt) helped the issue, then I would say that your plug wires are being affected by the humidity. This is likely due to a break down in the wire itself. I would definitely start with a tune up consisting of plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The condition being affected by humidity/rain is a dead give away to an ignition problem.

If the problem persists, then the next thing I recommend is to remove and clean the EGR valve. Stalling at idle and hard start issues can also be caused by a stuck EGR valve. An updated gasket is available that has a screen on the inlet side of the EGR valve which will prohibit chunks of carbon from hanging up the valve. Whenever you remove the EGR valve you should replace the gasket.

After that, I would do a fuel pressure test. Test with the key on, then turn the key off and watch the pressure. If it drops after the pump shuts off, then there is a leak in the system. Only after verifying that there is a leak would I pop the plenum off (or MTV).

 

The solutions to this condition seem to be endless. Always do the cheapest one first.

Inoperative EGR valve, some of the symptoms: Braking distance increased, stalling, lack of power..... One solution: Remove and clean the EGR valve and replace the EGR gasket witha aftermarket gasket that has acarbon screen.The patented carbon screen gasket is available from Tomco Inc., Fuel and Emissions Specialists. Their patented EGR gasket with a screen prevents carbon from the engine entering and plugging the pentel seat in the EGR valve.Tomco, Inc. KleenScreen EGR Filter Gasket, #2-1357,$12.99 + 2 hrs. labor.

 

before spending any money ALWAYS look into things. just throwing away money and replacing the parts is a rare way to find/fix ur problem.

some things to do w/ out spending money that can help find the exact part that went bad would be: checking ur spark plugs, cleaning the egr valve, and taking the upper plenum off and looking inside for leaks and/or other problems.

 

Diagonstic: $90.00 and that is not usually refundable.

This is America...nothing is free.

 

diagnose it ur self w/ some help from other people (like on the forum here) and its FREE!