Vehicle: 1989 Chevy s10 blazer, 4.3L, 2WD

So here's the story.....
I was driving up a hill when all of a sudden my blazer just dies. So far I have replaced;
All spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap/ roter, and coil. Any help will be appreciated.

 

Have you checked for trouble codes?
Is the "CHECK ENGINE", "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light coming on?
Even if it isn’t on you’ll first want to check to see if there are saved trouble codes, you can retrieve them as follows:

Ground terminals A and B using a jumper wire or simply by bending a paperclip into a U shape and then inserting each end of the paperclip into the A and the B terminals of the data link port (see diagram below).

With the ignition "ON" and engine Not running. The system will enter the diagnostic mode. In this mode, the computer will display a Code 12, three consecutive times, by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE", "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" or "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" or light on the instrument display panel. A Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, and then two flashes in rapid succession.

After Code 12 is displayed, any stored trouble codes will be displayed by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE", "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" or "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" light. All codes are displayed 3 times each then a code 12 will repeat. In the diagnostic mode, the computer will also energize all computer controlled relays and solenoids.





GM 2 Digit codes for 82 and up (non OBD-II) listed here:

GM Trouble Codes - 2 digit codes

 

I tried it out again from last weeks check. Same code. 12 - service check.

 

I'm assuming that you replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor and the coil all after it shut down on you, so assuming we can rule out the parts that you replaced as being to blame, I'm recalling a similar problem that I ran into with a friends truck, it turned out to be that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) located under the distributor cap was over heating when the engine ran for any extended period of time at highway speeds, what happened was when he changed the cap and rotor he took the (ICM) off of the distributor to spray out all of the rust and crud that was in the distributor, in doing so he'd inadvertently cleaned off all of the dielectric grease that must be used between the ICM and the mounting location inside of the distributor, the dielectric grease works as a "heat sink compound" to dissipate the heat that is generated by the ICM, I actually used computer heat sink compound that was purchased at radio shack because I already had some here at home. After reinstalling the ICM with a big blob of heat sink compound under it, the stalling problem had gone away never to return.

 

Okay I will try it after work tomorrow. But the problem now it won't start. Also I did change all those things out as mentioned after it died on me. I'll post back tomorrow night once done. Thanks for that too!

 

With it not starting, is it getting spark? Spray some carb cleaner into the intake as its being turned over and see if it trys to fire. If not, you are not getting spark and I would remove the ICM and get it tested at a parts store.

If it does try to fire, you are not getting fuel and you will have to do a pressure and leak down test.

 

I know I am getting fuel. I was able to see it shooting. Two good cones of spray. I am still currently at work but I will check the ICM when I get home.

 

If you are getting fuel then you are not getting spark. I would guess the ICM definitely

 

I bought a new ICM coming back from work. Well just changed it out and it worked. Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

If you want that new ICM to last, Then be sure to use the "heat sink compound" otherwise you'll be back on the side of the road with a case of déjà vu