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89 T10 blazer just cranks....I'm at a complete loss!!

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  #1  
Old 03-03-2011, 09:52 PM
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Default 89 T10 blazer just cranks....I'm at a complete loss!!

Well this is my second post about this stupid blazer! ...

1989 T10 Blazer, 4.3tbi, Auto


Here's the deal, all i want to do is sell this thing... So i shampood the interior on it, rolled down the windows and let it idle, the heater on the floor on high for a couple of hours to dry it out.
Well obviously that didnt work, since a few days later i went to start it and it stumbled, then nothing.
I checked out the fuse box and it was covered in condensation. So i used a blow dryer to dry everything out real good under the fuse box area.
Checked all the fuses and none were blown.

I have never had any problems with this rig until my brilliant idea to clean up the interior!

This is what it does:

When i turn the key it tries to start, more of a stumble. Then when i try to start it again all it does is crank. I checked all the fuses and they're all fine.
If i take out the key and try again it still does nothing but turn over.
I tried using some starting fluid and also gas directly in the throttle body and nothing.
But when i let it sit for a day or disconnect the battery and try it again...then it first does the stumble and then just cranks??

I have the factory tech manual and cant find any kind of relay for the ecm or ignition? To me the first thing it seemed like is a relay someplace..but i cant find one???

I plugged the OBD1 gm scan tool into it and it is NOT throwing any codes either.

So what i've done so far was replace the ignition module (also new cap/rotor) still nothing.

most of the dash is torn apart trying to find any type of relay or corrosion on plug ends. And i'm searching for the ECM. Since i was told it is behind the glove box, meaning i still have more taking apart to do....

Honestly really have no idea!

I've also replaced the fuel pump relay as well...and guess what...yep..nothing.

I'm about ready to torch it at this point since i'm going crazy! All i want is it to run and sell! lol

Thank you ahead of time for any information at all!!!
 

Last edited by bigjayfromwa; 03-03-2011 at 09:54 PM.
  #2  
Old 03-04-2011, 02:54 PM
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You didn't mention if you had spark, or fuel pressure. That's the first 2 things you need to find out, then we can go from there..
 
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:24 PM
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Im having the exact same problem, with my 2.8 FI.

Im changing the o2 sensor tomorrow and I will check for spark also.

I will let you know if I get it fixed but I am still looking for help as well.

No one seems to help me with this problems on these forums
 
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:15 PM
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You know the other day I had a hell of a time starting my 2.8L.

It was the first day of good wet above freezing moisture after lots of below freezing weather. After it wouldn't start, I knew it was getting fuel. If the pump isn't running the CEL light wouldn't light up during crank. I then took off a plug wire, and held it close to a negative and it actually zapped me, it kinda tingled. Therefore I knew I had spark.

So after a half hour of cranking (jumped to my wifes truck) it finally took off. I ruled it down to be the plugs were wet and not creating any spark inside the combustion chamber.

So like these other guys have said, check for spark and fuel. Its very difficult to check pressure on the 2.8L because of the lack of a schrouder valve, but just have someone crank and watch the injectors on the TBi, if there spraying then you know you got fuel.
Check for spark by pulling a plug wire and sticking a screwdriver into it to get metal contact then put it by, but dont touch, a ground. If you see blue arcing (and or hear tick tick tick) then you know you got spark. Careful with the wires, they break easily inside the boot.

And for you Jay, considering you said you poured fuel in there and nothing happened I would search the forum for ignition and see what you come up with. There sould be some places in here that tell you what to check first, I have seen them in this forum. Also, double check for spark, just to make sure before you go all deep into the ignition system. And the plugs if you got spark, that would be the next step.

Also, for both of you, pull the spark plugs and make sure there clean and properly gapped. I know the 2.8L requires .045, but don't know about the 4.3L

I would also pull thge dist. cap and make sure the tabs on the inside are clean and the button is clean, there could be bad contact in there.

PS... my ECM is directly above the kick panel on the passenger side right above the right foot when sitting in the seat. I just took mine out to pull the heater core cover. It's hard to describe, but if you pull that cover and pull the carpet back right there you'll see the wire coming from the firewall up into the lower dash area on the pass side and like everyone has said it is right behind the glove box. Look up from the floor and you'll see it there. You take 1 bolt off from the bottom of the dash right around where the kick panel screws come off from and then it pulls straight down.

Disconnect the wires and put them back in nice and tight.and try to crank again.

PS PS... Remember after all this crankin g were taking about, shes gonna be rich in gas, another good reason to check the plugs.
 

Last edited by burning_soul07; 03-06-2011 at 10:22 PM. Reason: ECM info
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:21 PM
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Hey, so I checked for spark today.

Replaced 3 plugs on the drivers side, one of them didnt have spark so I replaced it.

Engine fired right up, a little rough at start but after it warmed up it smoothed out.

So I would recommend you check your spark, I had the exact same problem and it was infact spark.
 
  #6  
Old 03-07-2011, 09:09 PM
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It comes down to Spark, Fuel or Timing. You can try adding a little fuel directly into the TBI and see if it starts. If it does start than you need to check fuel pressure. TBI needs 9-11 PSI. Check for spark at the coil, than at each plug. You can use an inductive timing light to check for spark. If you have no spark at the coil, replace the coil, if you have no spark at all plug wires than you need to dig into the distributer and figure out what is wrong. You can have faulty plug wires or fouled plugs. If you have fuel and spark than you need to check timing. Bring number 1 cylinder to TDC and check to make sure that the rotor is pointing to the number 1 plug wire on the cap. The ECU is located under/behind the glove box. You need to remove the lower dash cover and it has a hold down screw/bracket that keeps it in place. It is possible that your car jumped time without warning. It does happen. I had a car jumped time on me and all I did was pull in the drive way, change the oil and when I was done the car would not start afterwards. I had it towed to the repair shop and the diagnosis was the timing chain.
 

Last edited by mr.vls; 03-08-2011 at 07:20 PM.
  #7  
Old 03-13-2011, 05:42 PM
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I don't have a tip for getting it going but in the future if you need to dry the truck out us e the ac instead of the heater


later
gee
 
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