hmm..

 

I think i've got it!

The combination of sounds im hearing are a few separate things. After a buddy of mine looked at my truck he said the squeeking is either my back drum brakes are going bad, and also my wheel bearings in the back are going bad (wiggled the wheel).

The clanking that happens sometimes he said is most likely my U-joint in the rear. the other tinks and clinks that rarely happen when driving he said is something with my transmission.

I haven't replaced any of that or fixed it but plan on doing that soon. Truck started running really horribly last night but found out that was just a spark plug wire that had came off somehow lol

He said it could be possible that I need to tighten my back wheels to fix the wiggle, or quite possibly the bearing could be going out altogether.

Will see how things go after replacing/fixing these ideas.

 

sounds like you might have to take a trip to the junk yard, to get some parts. i went the other day to find a graveyard of s10 blazers, and found some decent parts/accessories too. even picked up a guage that shows angle and elevation (no clue what its called tho??). well have fun and good luck

 

Inclinometer.

 

right on - now if i only had a good place to mount it level

 

even if you "put it back in the correct spot", you shoulf still check it with a timing light. **don't forget to unplug the connector under the heater box before you do** this could be causing the high idle problem (if the signal pulse isn't set right, the ECM can act all stupid).
as for th "squeaking" coming from under the truck (near the back), it's (probably) the universal joints in the drive shaft. more than likely they're the origional factory ones, and are usually only good for 100K, although i had the front one in my '84 Blazer go almost 330K (205 miles) before i replace them (found out later that wasn't the issue). you should also hear a slight, metallic "tink" when starting off (forward or reverse) or switching between froward or reverse.

 

Had a friend of mine with the timing gun do my timing a few days ago. He said "yea, its way off haha". He timed it and its running great and normal ever since.

I always hear a fairly loud clunk whenever shifting into reverse (its done this since i've owned it). It doesn't clunk when shifting into anything else. Even shifting into any 4wd mode, i've never heard any grinds or clanks, or any noise at all really.

But more recently I have been hearing the metal tinks when accelerating, or turning sometimes, or letting off the gas to quickly.

The squeaking when accelerating and going at low speeds is not a constant thing. It only seems to happen about 25% of my in town driving.

I think I may have screwed up my u-joint in the very back from trying to get it off when I towed my truck with a dolley. I couldn't get it off when I tried but I may have damaged it a little trying? lol only 10 bucks at autozone so I'll just get a new one in a few days. I assume if that doesn't fix both the squeek and the tinks then the squeek must be the wheel bearings need re-greasing?

getting excited my truck is almost completely fixed

 

So I went to take a look at my rear wheel bearings to see what tools I need to get to them, and as I started to take off my rear tire, I noticed that every bolt was fairly loose.

I didn't have to use hardly any strength to loosen them. So I went around my whole truck making sure that every nut on every tire was pretty tight. A lot of them were to easy to loosen. Kind of scarey that I've been driving around like that though.

The squeaking at low speeds has seemed to stop. The tink/clank is still there but we'll see for how long after I change my U-Joint tomarrow.

 

be careful when changing them. i forgot to mention that the factory ones were installed with nylon injected into the loops of the drive shaft during assembly (way quicker than paying some smuck to install the clips for the cups).
you'll need to heat the ends of the drive shaft to "melt" the nylon. it'll usually squeeze it's way out of the ends through two small holes on the sides of the yoke area (stops when it's nearly gone, kinda obvious, i know).
be really careful when pressing out the old uni cups, you can "squeeze" the yoke together, making the new universal bind. i would press them out, rather than driving them out with a big hammer and a socket (this is how i "squeezed" mine).
good luck.