I have a 1992 S10 4 door Blazer. I need to replace the power window motor on the passenger side front door.

I am a little confused by the process for removal. Do you drill out the rivets holding the motor/regulator assembly in position, remove the motor/regulator assembly from the door and then drill through the sector gear to hold the spring tension?

OR:

Is there some way to drill the hole in the sector gear before removing the motor/regulator assembly?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

I just did the drivers side motor on mine about a month ago. First I drilled out the rivets holding the assembly to the door and then once I got it out I used a clamp and a small flat piece of steel to secure the coiled return spring so it wouldn't pop out of place. I then used a drill battery with some jumper wires attached and touched them to the terminals on the motor so it would move the regulator and the hole on the driven gear would line up with the hole on the backing plate (I think it was the backing plate). Now once the holes are lined up run a small enough bolt through them and screw on a nut to hold the bolt in place. Now proceed with drilling out the rivets that hold the motor to the regulator, everything should stay in place. Grease all the moving parts of the assembly including the new motor pinion gear. I think before you remove any rivets securing the regulator to the door, it is best to have the window in the up position, that way the pre-load on the return spring is at a minimum, good luck.

 

I did mine not that long ago, too.

I put a plastic grocery bag over the top of the door (to protect the paint), then used duct tape over that to hold the glass up (2 pieces). I used a die grinder on the rivets holding the regulator assembly to the door (those things are HARD). Then I used a 4" C-clamp to hold the spring in place while I drilled out the rivets holding the motor to the regulator. Swapped the regulator, putting a glob of grease on the new gear, then bolted it together. Released the C-clamp and everything was fine, then bolted the assembly back to the door.

I used a C-clamp with the little rubber add-ons to avoid gouging the metal and clamped it pretty hard. Worked fine on both sides.

 

One other thing you can do to make the rivets easier to drill is to take a small punch and knock out the center of the rivet.

 

Thanks for the responses!! I kinda thought this was the case but it is nice to talk to someone who has done it..