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93 S10 Blazer, CPI, wont run anymore

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Old 03-09-2010, 09:58 PM
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Default 93 S10 Blazer, CPI, wont run anymore

I have replaced distrubutor, cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, cpi and lines, fuel filter. I had the desired fuel pressure before i replaced the cpi ad lines. After replacing the cpi and lines it still wouldn't start. No spark then i got spark then no spark and then died. Tested icm tested good several times. Put i back on now have good spark still wont start. Any ideas will save me from blowing it up.
 
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:22 AM
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Sounds like its a possibility of your ignition module sensor which is under you cap and rotor with three different plugs connected to it and two screws.

A autostore like autozone and advance auto parts can check these with there computer system check. So just pull it off and take it in to see.


Conrad
 
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:04 PM
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Are you sure the wires are all in the right spots? Did you have the distributor shaft out? Cause its easy to put back in out of time... Also when I had my CPI out I noticed that the plugs that go onto the injector were loose and the rubber thing that keeps it from flopping around was eroded and almost non existant. My wires would flop around and make it run like poop. This plug was about 15 bucks at NAPA, I bought it for a 95 half ton truck, its the same plug. The new one has a rubber thats like new and is nice and tight on top of the injector. You just cut the wires off as close to the old plug as you can, and solder on the new plug. And easy test to see if this may be your culprit is to wiggle the wires where they come out of the lower plenum on the front right side, the wires are blue and red. Try pushing them in farther and pulling them out more. Or just replace them and be done with it. I was able to make my truck stall out by jiggling them around. Ran smooth as diareah once they were changed. Its possible that the fuel pressure is right on, but the injector isnt firing cause this connector is old and shoddy. Let us know if it helped you out.
 
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:01 AM
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That plug may look like its in alright condition and should be doing something, but trust me when I say, move it and look it over and see if it runs as I just fixed it on mine and mine would not start at all like i was not getting gas or spark.

Conrad
 
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by speedzonwheels
Sounds like its a possibility of your ignition module sensor which is under you cap and rotor with three different plugs connected to it and two screws.

if that is the issue, be sure to clean the base of the distributor really well, and apply a thin coat of white lithium grease to the bottom of the module before you put the new one on.

even do this when putting the old one back on (since i take it you're probably gonna get it tested).
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by old skool luvr
if that is the issue, be sure to clean the base of the distributor really well, and apply a thin coat of white lithium grease to the bottom of the module before you put the new one on.

even do this when putting the old one back on (since i take it you're probably gonna get it tested).
I think he means HEAT SINK paste. Big difference. Get a small tube at the auto store, or computer shop. They use it on CPUs.

ICM getts too hot, it won't need any paste, it will need butter, cause it's

 
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Schrade
I think he means HEAT SINK paste.
no, i said what i meant.
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by old skool luvr
no, i said what i meant.
No problem, long as he uses HEAT SINK paste.

 
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Schrade
No problem, long as he uses HEAT SINK paste.

the white lithium grease works for me. never had an issue with any of the ones i've done.

been using it for almost 20 years, so i guess it works too!
 
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