94 Vortec Blazer Restoring?
#1
94 Vortec Blazer Restoring?
I've just received a 94 Vortec Blazer that's been sitting outside for two years . I'm told it ran a little rough before, but now after sitting that long it turns over but wont catch. Is this a job I can do with basic mechanical skills and tools or should I take it to a shop? I'm worried I'll need to do something that will require special tools or removal/disassembly of the motor which I have no idea how to do. But if I take it to a shop it might cost an arm and a leg fixing endless things....
#2
Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. You should have about 58psi. "key on" pressure. My guess is that the fuel pump is weak, a common problem with these, but check it first. If it is the fuel pump, you will have to drop the fuel tank to replace it.
#3
Yes you can fix most things under the hood yourself with hand tools. Its whats great about chevys. Start out be seeing if you have spark at the plugs, what condition they are in, and check that fuel pressure, if no spark, work your way back to the coil and see where you lose it. If you like collecting tools, then buy the (Fuel Injection pressure tester) it will cost you about 50 bucks for a good one. Or beg or borrow, but its a handy tool to have in your arsenal. Can you hear your fuel pump buzzing? How much gas is in it? If its 2 years outside, and not full to the top, I would syphon it out and burn it and put good gas in it. Does it smell like gasoline or kind of like paint thinner?
#4
Yes my friend you have a golden opportunity to really learn about your vehicle. Like bowtie-72 and ohsofly said the fuel tester is #1 on the list. But checking the plugs, wires, coil and cap for corrosion (it has been 2 years) doesn't cost a thing.
#5
Thanks guys. It seems I can get a whole fuel sending unit with fuel pump for almost the same cost as a fuel pressure gauge. I figure I may as well just replace it and know it works. Never done this before so I'll get a repair manual and try my hand at it. Anything special I should be aware of? Should be able to do this with a jack and some stands right? Hope I don't need a lift. I imagine the tank is pretty damn heavy when it falls out of there. I'll probably replace the plugs and other cheap stuff anyways just to eliminate them as variables too.
Last edited by Eric Tyrrell; 02-01-2011 at 09:35 AM.
#6
I just noticed in my Chilton that the fuel pressure gauge is required to bleed the fuel line of pressure before removing the tank so I may as well just get one.
#7
Holler if you need advice. Just make SURE you get the right pump. For a Vortec it should put out between 55 - 61 psi. If you get it all back together and it only puts out 15 - 20 psi you have the wrong one and you should be pissed at the parts guy. You need to make sure you tell them it's for a Code W engine not a Z. They should ask. Pulling the tank is easier if you also remove the L/H rear tire. Go slow and make sure you remove all grounds.
#8
Just replaced tank, pump/sending unit on my '88. The only special thing you'll need is some sort of brass punch to remove the lock ring on the tank. You really don't want to make any sparks. Also get a wide piece of wood between the tank and the jack, makes it much easier to balance and control with fuel in there sloshing around. Good Luck!
#9
^^^
Didnt know brass wont spark - thank for teaching me something new today.
I spray some CO2 from a blower can down the filler spout myself, cant light off with no air. But I will be using a brass punch now.
Also, you dont need that to bleed the line, just press in the shrader valve with something blunt.
Didnt know brass wont spark - thank for teaching me something new today.
I spray some CO2 from a blower can down the filler spout myself, cant light off with no air. But I will be using a brass punch now.
Also, you dont need that to bleed the line, just press in the shrader valve with something blunt.
#10
Make sure you get as much of the gas out of the tank as you can! It gets real heavy, and sloshes around.