ok it starts fine for the first time of the day then if you drive it 2 miles(and shut it off) it starts slow cranking. took to shop, they said starter, so they put in new starter, and battery. nothing changes. t wont idle either maybe for a secnd or 2 but then it starts loping and dies. so i gt it home check vacuum lines thee fine. change the plugs and the ignition control module. nothing new coolant temp sensor, and knock sensor. fuel spider is relatively new. i can dive it all day just fine, but if you come to a stop it dies again. has new head gaskets, manifolds, and al gaskets that come with the HG kit check engine light was on but all it needed was CTS and knock sensor listed above. timing looks right.

94 s10 blazer 4x4 4.3w

 

i really got ya'll stumped huh?

 

Please post the specifics on how you tested the timing, checked for vacuum leaks, and whether you checked the EGR system. Saying you checked this or that without specifics on what was measured and how doesn't give most of us the information we need to properly help you. We have no idea of your abilities and if you perform a test incorrectly you can rule out something that might actually be the problem.

A simple "bump" would have sufficed. With the holidays, I wouldn't expect to get round the clock responses.

 

check fuel pressure and bleed off? Jerry

 

i compared the vacuum lines to the diagrams fond on the net. i used a timing light placing the white line inside the largest notch on the timing tab.

 

So you checked the vacuum lines and ensured that they were not incorrect, but you didn't check for a vacuum leak. You can check for a vacuum leaks with an unlit propane torch; tracing along vacuum lines, any gasket surfaces, and any other area that air may enter the intake plenum.

When you checked the timing, did you disconnect the connector on the single brown wire inside the cab, off the right side of the transmission tunnel, right where the carpet ends and the firewall begins? If not, the registered timing would have included the electronic advance and if you changed it, then it is now incorrect.

 

i have undone the connector when i set the timing. i can try the vacuum lines but im sure its not that, wont take a min to spray some carb cleaner in around there. i think its a timing issue or a sensor that messes up the timing. she starts just fine when cold, but when warm it cranks lke the timing is off. and sometmes it will idle fine for a second then just dies. and the idle has nothing to do with wether it has been warm. no ses codes made me think ICM, but that didnt fix it. not a clogged cat cause them are gone also.

 

My Blazer is acting up the exact same way.

I work for a car restoration company part-time and his engine shop guy had me a hint which may help.

I had no time at the moment to change it but will do that as soon as my Blazer comes out of the paint shop.

He said: You may want to check your crank position sensor. They come in a plastic fixture which over time loosens a bit and the distance between the magneto and the crank wheel increases just so much. The magneto also looses some. When cold this distance is smaller and the cars usually just start fine. When running, the crank wheel spins at a speed which keeps the signal strong enough for ignition and ECU to work fine. When you shut it down and then try to restart when hot (or warm) the starter is not able to turn it at a speed high enough for a proper signal to ECU or ignition (depends on models).

Makes sense to me and is also the reason it does not throw any malfunction codes.

I'll have it exchanged in February most probably.

Should not be too expensive to change and maybe this is the problem.

 

Check the E.G.R. valve. Pull it and see if clean (meaning the pentle valve moves freely). Carbon build up is a hugh problem with the 92-95 cpi. Its located under air intake on manifold. Two 10mm bolts an a wire harness clip. If really dirty have to clean ports inside of manifold as well.

 

ok so i havent changed anymore sensors, but the egr is blocked off, and the pintle was moving freely in there anyway. but check this when i disconnect the black/tan wire, i get a remarkable difference. it idled really low, but steady. and driving was steady also. so somthing is throwing the time off. what sensor runs that brown wire.