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HELP!! blazer bogging and cutting out

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Old 03-12-2010, 01:06 PM
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Default HELP!! blazer bogging and cutting out

ok im new here so forgive me but i have a 94 s10 blazer 4x4 with the 4.3 vortec and when i got it it ran fine drove it home no prop, got home the tank was leaking so i replaced the tank with a new one and while i was in there i also did the pump and sending unit so everything back there is new, when i was finished i test drove it and it ran fine, even went through a mudd hole and it was fine, now today i went to get plates put on it and when i turned it over it kinda popped and didnt start, i tried again it fired right up, while im driving if i give it any gass it starts bogging and sputtering, if i barelly give it any gas it will run fine, at an idle it is idling pretty rough, and off of a stop it will bog down really hard then pick up. can someone please help me, im without a job, and bought this to get another job and get back on my feet and now this happens.
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:36 PM
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hey man first do the simple. reg tune-up. you just bought the truck so who knows when the last time it had one (plugs cap rotor). you said you gotta new tank and pump and filter, check the fuel pressure some fuel pumps (esp from MASTER) can be garbage from the shelf. It sounds like a spark/fuel problem (everytime you put your foot on gas it bogs), so i would first check the pressure.
now dont laugh but go to the auto parts store and get your battery checked. sometimes the battery can be so low it doesnt give the motor the juice it needs for a hot spark. happened to me before. first thing i did was just charge the battery and 30k+ miles later no bog.

lemme know how it goes

btw welcome to the forum, lotta great info on here. pull up a chair and stay awhile
 

Last edited by swartlkk; 03-12-2010 at 08:24 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT function to add additional information to your post if another member has yet to reply.
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:46 PM
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i didnt replace the filter, but what are the chances it could be the pump?
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:53 PM
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Are you getting a SERVICE ENGINE light at all? If yes, then read on here about how to get the codes with a paperclip fron the connector by your knees and tell us what the trouble codes are... that will be a major hlep.

I also recommend starting out with a tune up. Parts wont be more than a hundred bucks to do quite a bit of stuff.

Plugs x6 - dont bother with the expensive ones like Platinum +4 (6-8 bucks each)
Rotor and Cap (25 bucks)
Can of combustion chamber cleaner (10 bucks)
HELP! brand screened EGR valve gasket (5 bucks)
Fuel Injection Pressure tester (50 bucks) this is a handy tool to have, its a guage and hoses and connectors.

Take off your EGR valve and clean it out too, make sure the plunger doesnt stick all the way in when you push it, clean out all the crap from the valve itself and all the junk from where it bolts to the engine.

Then come back and tell us all about it.
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:54 PM
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well if i were you at least take the filter out and blow thru it. the pump is honestly a 50/50 shot, seen it too many times. but before you go thru the hassle of it again, id check spark for "good" spark to the plugs, than a fuel pressure check. My bet would (considering it was running fine with old pump) its the pump
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:06 PM
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i dont have a check engine light or anything like light but with the old pump in, the check engine light came on while driving it home when i bought it, it came on once it was warmed up and stayed on, it has not been on since i switched the tank and pump
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:27 PM
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Try pulling your trouble codes out anyways. Im pretty sure they store the codes. If its an EGR code like I had, you only get it on times when the EGR wants to be all the way open, which was on long drives when the engine got up to operating temperature then you stop and cylinder temp goes up more...

Anyhow, try getting a code from it, and do the tune up and we will go from there. You can also ask the parts strore guy to plug his scanner in to your rig when you are buying the tune up parts... he might even be able to check your fuel pressure for you with a shop guage as well so you dont have to buy a 50 dollar tool. We need to know the pressure when you turn your key on... When you are starting it... When its running... Then turn it off and let us know if the pressure bleeds down on you.

There is a wealth of knowledge here at this forum, we will get you running cheap!
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:52 PM
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oh also forgot to include this, while i was driving home i had to go up a big hill and so i floored it and helld it there and listen to it bog and pop and sound like crap and then i started to smell something burning, so i let off and then i could really smell it, and it wasnt electrical burning, or rubber but it was very strong, and there was no smoke and a lil further up the road i couldnt smell it anymore
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:58 PM
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Like rotten eggs? Thats what it smells like when raw fuel is getting into the exhaust and overheating the catalytic convertor, if you got out and looked under the truck quick that cat would be glowing red hot, thats not good. Start on that tune up and get some codes and fuel pressure for us to help you out with.
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 03:10 PM
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no it wasnt rotten eggs it didnt smell like the cat just something burning cant really describe it
 


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