A couple of days ago I got into my 1993 automatic 4wd Jimmy, turned the ignition and felt a pop in the key cylinder. The cylinder turns freely in the column but does not make the appropriate connections in Run, Start or Acc. If I move it to where the Off position should be the steer wheel is locked as it should be. Anywhere else in the rotation the steering wheel is free to move. There is not power in any position.

My question is.... Can anyone confirm that it is the lock cylinder itself or may it be some other component in the column?

I have not been able to find anything with these symptoms in any of the forums. How is the cylinder changed? Any hints for problems shortcuts other issues?

Thanks

 

i just did one on a fullsize. and theres like a 2inch rod that comes out of that ignition cylinder across the column to the other side that has like a gear that pushes the rod to the ignition cylinder. so it could be any of those too. it took me like a hour at a shop with unlimited tools. you need a steering wheel puller. the part that took the longest is this little clip that behinds the wheel. i spent like 20 minutes on that thing. once you get inside you have to take out the turn signal mechanism and turn signal lever along with the hazard switch. then you can get at the screw that holds it in place, it really isnt that hard and everything goes back together easily as long as you have a good memory or a camera phone

 

before you go ripping apart the column, check @ the bottom of the column for the rod that pushes on the ignition switch. if that's not moving then you need to pull the steering wheel off, and take apart the column.

it took you an hour abig84 to do it? really?? the first one i did was done in less than 20 minutes. got as quick as 5 minutes (but i was just showing off).

when removing your horn cap, be careful you don't break the plastic clip for the wire. it goes down through the steering wheel, and is held in like a brake light buld (push in, and twist to remove).

the safety clip on the main nut?......you can just pry it off and toss it away, i've never had an issue with the nut coming loose after. now the snap ring that is inside the column-which you need the tool that screws onto the shaft, and then presses down on the retainer plate (the black lock ring plate)-is a bit of a bitch. don't be cute, don't be gentle, just pry the damn ring off. you can bend it back into shape after with some needle nose pliers. after that ring is out/off, unscrew the tool from the shaft.

remove the screw in the hazard switch first, since it's easier to get @ when it's all screwed together still. then remove the screw for the signal arm-DON'T DROP THIS (or any other) SCREW DOWN THE COLUMN-it's a real pain to get them back out.
then you can do the 3 other screws that hold in the signal/hazard assembley. you'll need to move the signal switch (like you were "signaling") with your finger each way to get @ 2 of the screws. then use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the assembly out past the top of the column. it's gonna be tight, so don't be afraid to actually pull firmly on it to get it out-but be careful! you then need to use your needle nose pliers again, to remove that little white plastic piece w/2 brass "spring like" pieces coming out of it. this is covering/blocking the T20 screw or 5/16 bolt (i've seen both in these trucks). now i've come across some trucks that didn't have this little plastic piece, so don't worry if you don't find that in there.

the cylinder will now slide out. obviously, you just work back from this point for reassembley. i will give you a free "make it easier to put back together" tip. when you go to install the little snap ring on the lock plate, slip it over the bottom of the tool before you screw the tool on. it's waaaaaaay easier than trying to get it out of the top grove when you put it on before the tool. use a screw driver, and push it down fast so it goes in in onr shot.

don't think i've left anything out, but then again, it's 3:06am, been up for 22 hours now.

let us know how you made out, and good luck.

 

Thanks for the replies fellas. I tackled it this afternoon. I did what old skool luvr suggested and checked the rod at the bottom of the column for movement....none... so I opened up the column. Your directions were spot on and much more helpful than my Chilton's. You really do need the right tools. Really appreciate Autozone tool loans.

Found that the lock cylinder was fine. Old one worked the same as the new one. Checked out the switch while I was tearing things down and it was OK.

Little frustrated and about to wrap it up for the day when a friend came over to check it out. He is a retired cop and after looking over and messing with the mechanism to check out operation said that there is a "pin" on top of the column that car thieves access to by popping through the shroud and push it over with a finger to start the car.

He took some needle nosed pliers and forcefully turned the lever at the base of the lock cylinder and he must have freed up the pin because the system is back to normal operation.

He said I may have forced the key when I last started it that either pushed or jammed it out of place. Or it just may be worn down.

I will check it out tomorrow before putting it all back together. The service manuals all show the parts for not really how they interact. At least I learned something about the steering column components today.

Thanks again.

 

I give this a thumbs up! Very helpful information on the ignition lock cylinder and all that. My car needed a replacement cylinder last week and I used this guide and it was a success. Thanks a lot!