I bought this blazer in late 1999. At the time of purchase, I replaced the batteries in the Fob and the KE (keyless entry) worked properly, however it didn’t last long so I just use the key. The electric door latch works properly with the exception of the KE.

Thinking it was just the batteries, purchased a 2 pack of 2016s. Check the voltage of each battery with my Fluke meter and both were about 3.3 volts. Installed them in the Fob after cleaning the contacts and checking for continuity, everything thus far good. Tried to operate the KE and nothing happened.

Searched threads, blog and service information. My quandary is where is the malfunction, the Fob or KEM.

Tech information was:

1. Ground pin G of the Data Link Connector (DLC).

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  • Receiver will respond by locking and unlocking doors within 2 seconds.

2. Press any button of the first transmitter to be programmed.
3. The control module will respond by locking/unlocking doors and activating rear window release.
4. Press any button of the second transmitter to be programmed (if used).
5. The control module will respond by locking/unlocking doors and activating the rear window release.
6. Remove the ground applied to pin G of the Data Link Connector (DLC).
Transmitter operation is verified by locking and unlocking the doors and activating the rear window release.

Accessed a ground and check its validity by checking continuity at the negative battery terminal. From the ground made contact to pin G of the Data Link Connector. The receiver as to respond by locking and unlocking doors within 2 seconds. NOTHING HAPPENED, waited a while, still nothing happened. So this indicates to me a problem with the KEM.

The information I gathered tells me the KEM is located in or under the center console. I’ve included pictures of the center console. The 2 screws in the bottom of the storage box release the rear portion, but it seems the front attachment is under the cup holders.

How is the cup holder portion removed?

When I gain access to the KEM, check the connections etc and it still doesn’t work. It seems a viable avenue to take is scrape the old system in favor of something like a Vipor 211HV Keyless Entry System for $50.

How is the cup holder portion removed and what about going for a new system?
I tried to attach pictures.


I just uploaded the console pictures in "My 1994 S10 Blazer" albuml

 

When I found the Keyless entry remote in the console of my 93, I found the similar way to try to get it to work, but I took a paperclip and jumped terminal A to terminal G on the DLC and all the doors unlocked/locked, then pressed a button on the remote, removed the paperclip and it worked.

As for the cup holder on your console, it simply snaps into place, so all you have to do is pull it off

Nice and clean blazer btw.

 

Thanks for the info. When I first accessed the DLC, I knew the A terminal was the DLC ground terminal, so I did the same as you, jumping terminal A & G. No action thou. So I thought that method was wrong and did a negative battery ground & G. Still nothing.

I was wondering if it snapped off, it's just so much better not to break something when your unsure.

Have gone with a after market keyless entry setup?

 

I personally have not used an aftermarket key less entry setup because the original in my 93 still works.
I honestly do not know much more about the keyless system more than programing a remote. So hopefully someone will chime in on this one. Good luck to you.

 

I solved my keyless entry problem in late January.

Note:All my system worked in manual mode, just the keyless entry wasn't functioning.

1. starting from scratch, I found the components.
The TCCM below the dash glove box area.
The KEM under the center console
2. Going through the problem analysis given on Alldata lead me to the conclusion it was either the fob or the KEM(keyless entry module). The analysis said get a known working fob and try it. A known working fob still had to be programmed into my system.
3. I check out my fob, new batteries (checked the batteries with a meter),
check continuity from the battery to the board,
then the rubber cover gasket between the botton side and the board, I did locate a problem. The portion of the rubber cover that touches the circuit board to activate the circuit had no continuity. Don't know what was susposed to be there, some sort of coating to produce continuity on the board. I took and cut a round piece of aluminum foil and glued one inside each of the rubber cover button spaces, so when the button on the fob was depressed the foil would make contact on the circuit board to complete the circuit.
Still didn't know if it worked though.
4. Called a local dealership and ask if they had a way to check my fob to see if it was transmitting. To my delight they said yes, didn't cost anything and would only take a minute.
Drove down there, the counter person pulled out a test box, put my fob on top of it pressed each of the bottons and they all worked. I wasn't there 3 minutes, said thank you and headed home.
5. My keyless entry still didn't work. So this pointed me to the KEM - $250.00 or so.
6. Was looking around online and this guy had a article saying a lot of the KE module problems was in the solder joints on the boards inside the module. He said resolder the IC chip joints and showed which ones they were. The boards were covered with a coating that needed to be removed. Use lacquer thinner on the board, set set and use a tooth brush to clean it off. I found this to be a little more difficult than he made it out to be. It took several applications, put I did get it off, be carefully, you ness up the boards and your done!
The name of the article is: "Keyless Entry: Repair for a non-functional keyless entry" a write up done by: GnatGoSplat
When down to radio shack, bought a $15 pencil pit soldering iron and 60/40 solder. Carefully took the KEM apart
Note: clean the relay points, there are 2 relays, then try it out. Don't put the top back on and take it out to the vehicle, plug it up and test it, that could be the only problem.
Not working?? sorry, now to soldering.
7. I soldered the IC chip areas and to my delight some things started working, but not all. I went at this several times and finally resoldered every connection on both boards and that includes the jumper wirer on the end of the large board that helps hold that board up.( I believe there was a problem there.)
I was working more, as I examined the action of the module(cover off) I could see when I pressed the one botton function that still wasn't working, that the relay was activated but no spark jumped.(no voltage) So I looked at the boards again, found a spot where I thought 2 solder connections may have been shorted together.
8. Took my vacumn attached a small plastic hose inside the vacumn hose, heated the each joint and suched off the solder when it melted. (they have little gizmos for this!) Resolder the 2 joints, took it out, hooked it up - Hallelujah it all worked!!

I have some pictures pertaining to this in my blazer album or if I can help contact me with a site email.

Good luck and thanks to all those that helped me put the pieces together to get down the road to Success.

 

I thought I had problems with my keyless remote forever and I assumed it didn't work until I looked at the metal piece that holds the battery in the remote and realized that a little metal tab must have broken off and wasn't making contact with the tinny board. Did a little mcguiver work and sure as **** the thing works so maybe check the connectors on that actual remote to make sure nothing is broken or bent and not making contact.