Have broken off ignition key in cylinder. An attempt to use super glue by a "mechanic" fouled any attempt to remove the broken part. Is there a posted method on how to remove the cylinder? The switch is fine.

Thanks,

Stan

 

super simple job, takes me about 10 minutes, so for your first attempt, it shouldn't take you any more than 20.

you'll need a steering wheel puller, and another tool (can't remember the proper name) that looks like a long piece of "U" channel with a bolt running through it, and a what looks like a deep socket on the end (can you visualize that? hahaha!)

first remove the horn cap in the middle of the steering wheel-be careful not to brerak the horn wire behind it-you'll have about 2" of wire to play with. gently push in the plastic piece around the wire, and give a slight twist to it (counterclockwise if i remember correctly). once this is out, remove the triangular clip on the nut, remove the large nut (13/16 socket), bolt up your steering wheel puller, and remove your sterring whell.

now for the "U" channel looking tool (wish i could remember the really simple name for it). this tool is to remove the ignition locking plate for your steering wheel. it presses down on this plate (theres a large strong spring behind it) so your can pry/dig out the snap ring used to hold the plate in. i say "dig" 'cause this is the hardest part of the whole job. don't worry about bending/distorting this small snap ring-it's soft, easily bent back into shape, and really the only was to get it out.

once the ring is out, back off the U channel press, and remove the plate. now you can see your signal switch assembly (which covers your ignition). there are 3 Phillips screws you need to remove for this to come out, plus 2 other Phillips screws to remove, 1 for the flasher button (on the side) and 1 for the signal switch arm-be careful not to drop the bracket down inside the coloum when removing the screw (i did it, not fun!). those are quite obvious to find, but you'll need to "turn on" your signals (push the arm up & down) to gain access to the 2 screws on the right side of the assembley, so do this first. there hidden slightly, but are still visible when you open it up.

once all of the screws are removed (5 in total) you'll need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pull the sigal switch assembley out. there' just enough slack in the wires to just make it over the top of the coloum. set it to the side (on the left).

there is asmall white plastic piece, with 2 small srips of brass covering a screw/bolt used to hold in the cylinder, pull it out with your needle nose pliers. now you'll see either a T20 torx screw or a 5/16 bolt (i've seen both right up to the end of the 1st gen's). simply remove this screw/bolt, and the key cylinder slides right out. now you can slip n the new cylinder after you put a light coat of light weight grease on the end of the cylinder (the part that engages inside the coloum).

assembly is obviously in reverse order.

***take special care to NOT over tighten the 1 screw for the signal arm bracket when installing it, it can be stripped easily (and then your signals won't work, arm will just flop around)***