Hey folks I'm new to the site but have read numerous posts. Before anyone directs me to other forums saying the info has been posted before, I know it has and I just want to say that I think I've read them all or at least most of them. Although I probably missed the right one some where. I have found posts with some of my issues but not quite the same. I'm looking for fresh ideas.
I have a 1994 S-10 Blazer with the 233 transfer case. When I try to engage the 4x4 by pushing the electronic switch, the lights come on and then stay on. The 4x4 high does not blink. The 4x4 low blinks and then stays on. Only problem with both is there is no 4x4.
I have replaced the Actuator, the vacuum switch to the transfer case and the vacuum lines from the switch.
I have tried to reset the TCCM by pulling the fuse for 2min and then turning the key on 5 times without starting it.
When I push the 4x4 button I can hear it engaging and the drive shaft to the front axle locks but the axle does not engage. I had put all four wheels up on stands to see if the front wheels were engaged and they were not.
I also had some tranny fluid leaking into the transfer case. I pulled the fill plug and let it drain until it was below the fill plug hole. I got out quite a bit. I then checked the Transmission fluid level and it was low, so I added to get it back up to the proper level.
What else can I check?
I'm not extremely experienced in vehicle repair but I can usually read up on things and then figure it out. This however has me lost. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Sounds like you have two problems.

I'll start with the overfull transfer case. This is caused by a bad input seal on the transfer case. The t-case needs to be dropped to replace the seal.

As far as the front axle engagement is concerned, is vacuum actually getting to the actuator? If it is, is the actuator being pulled at least 1/2"? Can you manually pull the engagement cable and get it to lock in?

 

swartlkk,

Thanks for replying. I plan on taking care of the seal in the near future. On my other issue. When I replaced the actuator I was able to move the cable about 1/2" or so. I have not tried to engage it manually with vise grips yet. I have to get some cable to run from the battery post to the battery so I can run the vehicle and still get access to the actuator. Since I replaced the actuator, if the 4x4 wont engage with it locked with the vise grips, does that mean the cable would be bad?
I had also read something about a front axle switch. Is that similar to the transfer vacuum switch or are they talking about the encoder motor?

 

If you can pull the cable between 1/2" and 3/4", then the cable is likely working properly, but there may be problems in the front axle itself that need sorting.

To check the cable, you can disconnect it from the front axle & the shift fork. With it disconnected at both ends, it should move close to 1" total travel.

 

I'll check it and get back with you, thanks. I just pulled the battery and the actuator again and checked the cable movement. It has full movement. About 3/4 inch+

 

To check what swartltt said about the vacuum getting to the line. With the battery out like you said, pull the vacuum line off the actuator and with the 4x4 switch on 4 lo or high cover the line with your finger to make sure there is suction there. Then, if vacuum, plug the line back into the front axle actuator and verify it pulled the cable in the 1/2" swrtltt is talking about. Check the link in my signature for a detailed write up with pictures explaination about the vacuum.

The front axle switch is just a verifycation to the system that the front axle truely engaged. That switch is located where this line the vacuum pulls goes into the front axle.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I won't be able to get to work on my vehicle again for a couple of days but I'll check it out.

 

Another test you can do just to verify the cable & axle is working, is to either apply vacuum to the diaphragm or lock the cable with vice grips, then try to spin the front driveshaft in 2wd with the front wheels off the ground. You should see one wheel spin. Spin the driveshaft back & forth - you'll feel it if it's engaged.

 

I have a 93 s10 same problem but feels if I'm in 4wdhere gearing wise but as soon as my rear breaks free I'm just spinning tire in rear I was told I need a locker in the rear that would give me fwd too in 4wd is this true?

I also have independent front suspension

 

Your rear diff has absolutely nothing to do with whether or not your front diff is engaging. Won't make one bit of difference in the front if you put a locker in the rear. That's like a mechanic telling you if you put LED reverse lights in your tail lights it will make your headlights brighter. Not gonna happen.