1994 S-10 Blazer runs like *dung*...
#11
10-13-2009, 07:00 AM
"but unlike what is stated above, it is most definitely available separate from the whole CPI unit. " i was not implying you couldnt get it seperate! its been a few years since i had mine in which a replacement regulator was not available at my local parts stores. simply stated you can get it for about $40.00 instead of replacing the whole unit for roughly $400.00.
#12
10-13-2009, 05:05 PM
Well, I changed out the Fuel Pressure Regulator and cleaned out the EGR and the truck seems to be running substantially better. Not perfect, but better. It idles a hundred times better than before. It still sputters a bit and still isn't back to 100% power, but I can at least accelerate up to speed and not be a hazard any longer. The real test will be whether or not the fuel mileage returns.
#13
10-14-2009, 12:24 AM
the reason i like changing the whole spider as a unit with FPR is because sometimes the injectors are dirty or clogged. this way i knock out both those possiblities.....they also sell rebuilt spiders to...
lindertech.com no longer sells the 92-95 spiders with the 96 newer FPR mounted on the older spiders. they said there machinery broke that that they use to manufacture the adapter plate. and they arent going to repair the machine because its to expesive.
lindertech.com no longer sells the 92-95 spiders with the 96 newer FPR mounted on the older spiders. they said there machinery broke that that they use to manufacture the adapter plate. and they arent going to repair the machine because its to expesive.
#14
10-14-2009, 06:26 AM
That must be new... Just bought one not too long ago for a friends truck. Sucks regardless. That was a good kit. I might have to think about drawing it up and having it made up. I'll have to see if I can pull a CPI and SCFI spider from the junkyard the next time I am there.
#15
10-15-2009, 12:16 AM
That must be new... Just bought one not too long ago for a friends truck. Sucks regardless. That was a good kit. I might have to think about drawing it up and having it made up. I'll have to see if I can pull a CPI and SCFI spider from the junkyard the next time I am there.
Last edited by bigdaddykane93; 10-15-2009 at 12:20 AM.
#16
01-05-2010, 02:07 AM
another member just confirmed what i wrote in the post right above about the reluctor isnt pressed very hard on the shaft and can spin over time throwing off the timing....
#17
01-09-2010, 11:47 PM
New ideas
Have you found your problem?
I have run into this before myself and would be happy to share some new ideas for you to try, that won't cost you a dime to try.
I have run into this before myself and would be happy to share some new ideas for you to try, that won't cost you a dime to try.
#18
01-10-2010, 12:10 PM
#20
03-18-2010, 06:51 PM
Mine from somewhere else...
Your static pressure test indicates a leak in the line, or the FP regulator diaphragm, or leaking injectors, or a weak spring in the FPR diaphragm (least likely).
You do NOT need to concern yourself with dynamic fuel pressure tests (motor running) at this time - only static tests.
First check, COLD motor = turn the key on. Let it prime the fuel rails, shut off, then turn the key off. Pull the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. If you can, pull it at the manifold, but if not, pulling it at the FPR is OK. Smell the vacuum line for gas.
If it smells like gas, or is wet, then the diaphragm in the FPR is ruptured, and extra gas will get drawn into the intake. (This will make for HARD hot engine re-starts).
If no gas is in the vacuum line, then disconnect the pressure regulator, and cap the line WELL. Connect the fuel pressure gauge. Forget PINCHING fuel lines - you'll damage lines that way. Test again, and have a pencil ready, and watch the gauge drop. NOTE THE PRESSURE BLEED-DOWN TIMES, in 5, or 10, or 15 second increments. Write them down, post that result back.
If it still drops quickly, the injectors are leaking, UNLESS there is a visible leak between the line from the tank to the injectors. You HAVE to check that, before pulling the injectors.
If no leak, pull the injectors, and repeat the test, WITH A MASON JAR UNDER EACH INJECTOR. This will show which injector is bad. Leaking injectors is like a water hose with no sprayer on it - it just runs out. Put on the sprayer, and it sprays fine mist.
If it does NOT drop after 5 minutes or more, the fault is AFTER THE injector rails, and the injectors of course don't leak. The spring in the FPR is bad. There's no place further down the line that matters...
You do NOT need to concern yourself with dynamic fuel pressure tests (motor running) at this time - only static tests.
First check, COLD motor = turn the key on. Let it prime the fuel rails, shut off, then turn the key off. Pull the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. If you can, pull it at the manifold, but if not, pulling it at the FPR is OK. Smell the vacuum line for gas.
If it smells like gas, or is wet, then the diaphragm in the FPR is ruptured, and extra gas will get drawn into the intake. (This will make for HARD hot engine re-starts).
If no gas is in the vacuum line, then disconnect the pressure regulator, and cap the line WELL. Connect the fuel pressure gauge. Forget PINCHING fuel lines - you'll damage lines that way. Test again, and have a pencil ready, and watch the gauge drop. NOTE THE PRESSURE BLEED-DOWN TIMES, in 5, or 10, or 15 second increments. Write them down, post that result back.
If it still drops quickly, the injectors are leaking, UNLESS there is a visible leak between the line from the tank to the injectors. You HAVE to check that, before pulling the injectors.
If no leak, pull the injectors, and repeat the test, WITH A MASON JAR UNDER EACH INJECTOR. This will show which injector is bad. Leaking injectors is like a water hose with no sprayer on it - it just runs out. Put on the sprayer, and it sprays fine mist.
If it does NOT drop after 5 minutes or more, the fault is AFTER THE injector rails, and the injectors of course don't leak. The spring in the FPR is bad. There's no place further down the line that matters...