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-   -   Center link question (https://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-generation-s-series-1983-1994-tech-40/center-link-question-101980/)

Juggalonmd 07-16-2020 12:42 AM

Center link question
 
I'm getting ready to change out upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, one of the end links(only because the bushings are bad on it) both sway bar bushings, the ones that bolt directly to the frame, and idler arm. Should I do the center link also? There aren't any cracks or breaks and otherwise looks in good shape.


And is there a sequence to doing all this so I don't run into any lining up issues. I'm doing a Google search but not having much luck

christine_208 07-16-2020 02:51 AM


Originally Posted by Juggalonmd (Post 724651)
I'm getting ready to change out upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, one of the end links(only because the bushings are bad on it) both sway bar bushings, the ones that bolt directly to the frame, and idler arm. Should I do the center link also? There aren't any cracks or breaks and otherwise looks in good shape.


And is there a sequence to doing all this so I don't run into any lining up issues. I'm doing a Google search but not having much luck

Are you replacing the idler arm? If yes, go with the Moog one as it is beefier thsn the OEM ones.

As for hints, take measurements of the lengths of each tie rods so that you can reinstall them close their proper length.

For the upper conttol arms, use a white grease pencil to mark the positions of the eccentric washers. This will allow you to install them close to where they need to be.

You will still need an alignment done.

blazen_red_4x4 07-16-2020 09:59 AM


Originally Posted by christine_208 (Post 724652)
Are you replacing the idler arm? If yes, go with the Moog one as it is beefier thsn the OEM ones.

I think OP was refering to the center link (drag link) that the idler arm, pitman arm, and both inner tie rods attach to, not the idler arm itself.

If there's no damage to the center link, I see no reason to replace it. If you start torquing the idler arm, pitman arm, or inner tie rod links down onto the center link and you notice it splitting around the hole that they slot into, then YES replace it! it's not a super common occurrence, but I have heard of it happening before.

I've rebuild the entire front steering and suspension of my 04 twice now (twice because I used cheap parts the first time... the second time I went all Moog brand). Ball joints are fun if they're original, since they're riveted in... You have to grind off the heads of the original rivets (4 per ball joint) and the new ones will bolt into their place. I'm not usually a "toque nazi", but you definitely want to get these ball joint nuts and bolts to the proper torque spec, as they're kind of important lol. If you don't already have one, get yourself a pickle fork or a tie rod end remover tool, that'll save you a lot of headache during the disassembly. Other than what Christine mentioned about getting the lengths close on your new end links to match your old ones, it's all pretty much unbolt and replace parts.

And yes, you will need an alignment when it's all said and done for sure!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...c79d021ac3.jpg

Juggalonmd 07-16-2020 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by blazen_red_4x4 (Post 724663)
I think OP was refering to the center link (drag link) that the idler arm, pitman arm, and both inner tie rods attach to, not the idler arm itself.

If there's no damage to the center link, I see no reason to replace it. If you start torquing the idler arm, pitman arm, or inner tie rod links down onto the center link and you notice it splitting around the hole that they slot into, then YES replace it! it's not a super common occurrence, but I have heard of it happening before.

I've rebuild the entire front steering and suspension of my 04 twice now (twice because I used cheap parts the first time... the second time I went all Moog brand). Ball joints are fun if they're original, since they're riveted in... You have to grind off the heads of the original rivets (4 per ball joint) and the new ones will bolt into their place. I'm not usually a "toque nazi", but you definitely want to get these ball joint nuts and bolts to the proper torque spec, as they're kind of important lol. If you don't already have one, get yourself a pickle fork or a tie rod end remover tool, that'll save you a lot of headache during the disassembly. Other than what Christine mentioned about getting the lengths close on your new end links to match your old ones, it's all pretty much unbolt and replace parts.

And yes, you will need an alignment when it's all said and done for sure!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...c79d021ac3.jpg

Yea sounds good. Just waiting for idler arm to show up from rock auto. And I have the harbor freight ball joint remover pickle fork and a 3 point puller. I figure I should be able to get it done with these tools


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