Gimpy Blazer
Thank you for the help
As of right now I have no power on the orange at all, (lock and unlock switch)on the driver's side.
I stuck the test light on the plug of the actuator that I replaced and hit the remote button.
The light flashed when you hit the lock/unlock button on the remote. After connecting everthing up it did not work. The first thing I want to figure out is where that orange wire is losing it's power. In the morning I will start tracing with the test light.
Everything on the passenger side works well, nothing except the window motor (recently replaced) functions on the driver's side. I will start tracing from the left side to the relay. Then from the relay to ground. One thing that is really odd, the whole thing worked last wednesday for three lock and unlock cycles and then it quit working.
Again thank you for your help and I will troubleshoot more in the morning.
GreenBean

 

Sorry I didn't get back quicker. Had a little "procedure" (Ouch!!)
Are you just using the remote or the switch on the door too? Just curious.
The Orange/Black wire comes off a splice that the wiring diagram says is located behind the instrument panel above the fuse block. Looks like kind of a pain to get to but that's where I would start. There are three Orn/Blk wires coming out of it. One goes to the left door lock switch, one to the right and the third powers the relay. Hope this helps.

 

in all the trucks i've stripped, i've only ever come across one that had factory keyless, and the relay was under the ceter console-right near your ***.

been a couple of weeks, how are you making out?

 

Good afternoon Gimpy Blazer and OLd School LUVr
I just finished working on the truck
I repaired the defrost and now it works just fine.
Back to the driver's side door...
I traced the wire's starting from the lock/unlock switch. There is no power at all on the orange/black wire.
I checked both with a meter and the test light
Then I had the wife hit the lock on the factory remote as well as the lock button the passenger side. The light blue wire makes the test light come on and then turn off.
Unlock the door with the remote and the lock switch on the passenger door, and the same things happens on the black wire. The actuator plug also turns the test light on.
So now I hope to have time tomorrow to work on the orange/black trace.
I am a little confused as to where the relay is. I will look in both places and see what I find.
I also decided to see why the driver's mirror is not working.
The passenger mirror works fine, the driver's mirror has four wire's in it's plug. The color's are white, light green, blue, and yellow. The is no power on either the white or the light green when the small joystick is moved. The test light comes on the blue wire when the switch is pushed down and to the left. The yellow wire has power when you push the switch up. That is about it for today this truck is fun and I am learning alot thanks to you guys.
Take it easy
Green Bean

 

old skool
Actually when I pulled out my console to change it I found that I also have a remote keyless entry. Just no remote. I know a locksnith that sells them pretty cheao though. My factory book even tells you how to program it. Just more coin. I'm used to it though by now.
Greenbean
Here's what the book says about the relay location."Behind LH side of IP, on RH side of steering column bracket". If you remove the interior trim piece below the steering column it appears to be pretty accessable from the illustration. Scanner's on the fritz. Your wiring is correct as the Lt Blu wire is the Lock portion of the relay assembly and the Blk is the Unlock portion. I think your problem is going to be between the driver's door switch and the aforementioned splice above the fuse block (S253 if it does any good). I don't think you would have any action on the locks at all if the power wire was bad (Orn/Blk) to the relay.
As far as you remote keyless entry is concerned (just so not to confuse the book refers to it as the "Remote Keyless Entry Module" and it's a separate unit than the door lock/unlock relay amd is indeed under the center console) you have two more Orn/Blk wires coming from the same splice (boy it's a big one) to power two separate functions. One is to release the endgate glass and the other is to open the driver's door lock and then the rest of the doors. If any of this is working (which you say it is) then that's not your problem. And yes you will get power from both Lt Blu and Blk wires depending on which mode you select (Lock or Unlock). I really wouldn't worry so much about the relay assembly since I think it's working fine from what you've told us.
As for your mirrors this is going to take a few to figure out. I'm pretty good with W/Ds but this one gets a bit complicated. Your info helps a lot though.
Here's what the Dianosis section of the book says. Suggest you do these tests.
I take it you have power to the mirror switch. You need to access the connector on the mirror switch. (2 screws under the switch and it'll be in your hand) There is one connector we will refer to as C298A since that is the ID number for the switch on the W/D. The other connector we will be testing with is C502 and this is attached to the mirror. These tests take only a few minutes. Make sure you're on the Left mirror function.
A) This tests the Left and Right function
1) Connect test lamp from Lt Blu wire to Wht wire at power mirror switch connector C298A. Move power mirror switch to Left position then Right position. If test light lights in both positions, proceed with the next test. If it fails in either direction, replace the switch.
2) Connect test light from Lt Blu wire to Wht wire at C502. Move power mirror switch Left or Roght. If test kight lights replace the power mirror. If light does not light locate and repair open (broken wire) in Lt Blu or Wht wire between connector C298A and C502.
B) This tests the Up and Down function
1) Connect test light from Yel wire to Lt Blu wire at power mirror switch connector C098A. Move switch up and down positions. If test lamp lights in both positions, proceed with the next test. If it does not light in one or both positions replace the switch.
2) Connect test light from Yel wire to Wht wire at power mirror connector C502. Move switch to up and down positions. If test light lights, replace the power mirror.If test light does not light nocate and repair open (broken wire) in Yel or Lt Grn wire between connector C298A and C502.
This is straight from the factory manual. Couldn't have said ot better nyself. E-bay sells some power mirrors pretty cheap if you need one and can't find one at your local junkyard.