Fuel Injector
Hello guys!
I just need an ok or don't. Today my 1994 S-10 Blazers engine sounded very bad so I took it to PetBoys here in LA. They told me the FuelInjector is bad and they have to replace it. Its $725. What do you think of this price boys!
Please let me know!
Thank you so much
Andrea
I just need an ok or don't. Today my 1994 S-10 Blazers engine sounded very bad so I took it to PetBoys here in LA. They told me the FuelInjector is bad and they have to replace it. Its $725. What do you think of this price boys!
Please let me know!
Thank you so much
Andrea
Yeah get your hands dirty and save 425 bucks. You got all the info you need in these forums to get the job done yourself. Takes about 2 hours if you are reading instructions while doing it. You need a 10MM deep socket, and about a T35 for the nut kit bolt. That bolt is the hardest part to do.
It's not difficult to change the fuel injectors on this motor. I've done it before. There's little chance of getting it wrong if you take things off in sequence and replace them in reverse order.
Off the top of my head here's what I remember from the last time I did it:
1. Remove the air intake. Be sure and unplug the wires going to the intake air temperature sensor.
2. Unplug the wires going to the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, coolant temperature sensor and EGR valve.
3. Remove the cruise control and throttle cables from the butterfly valve bracket.
4. Remove the plate on top of the engine that says "Vortec."
5. Remove all of the nuts/bolts on the perimeter of the intake manifold.
6. Lift the upper half of the manifold off the top of the engine. At that point the fuel injector spider will be sitting right there in front of you. I would recommend testing the fuel pressure with the spider exposed. It may just be that the fuel feed lines (aka "nut kit") is leaking. If you turn the key on and let it pressurize for two seconds and then turn the key off you can see if any fuel leaks out of the lines after you shut off the key.
7. The injectors and/or "nut kit" are not difficult to remove and replace at this point. Put everything back in the reverse order of removal.
I always like to have a straightforward list of steps so I know what to expect when I undertake a new repair. I may have forgotten a few things here but it should be enough to let you know that it's an approachable and low-risk repair. There are also many threads previously posted on this forum that will give additional information. Try searching on "CPI" or "spider" to find them.
Off the top of my head here's what I remember from the last time I did it:
1. Remove the air intake. Be sure and unplug the wires going to the intake air temperature sensor.
2. Unplug the wires going to the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, coolant temperature sensor and EGR valve.
3. Remove the cruise control and throttle cables from the butterfly valve bracket.
4. Remove the plate on top of the engine that says "Vortec."
5. Remove all of the nuts/bolts on the perimeter of the intake manifold.
6. Lift the upper half of the manifold off the top of the engine. At that point the fuel injector spider will be sitting right there in front of you. I would recommend testing the fuel pressure with the spider exposed. It may just be that the fuel feed lines (aka "nut kit") is leaking. If you turn the key on and let it pressurize for two seconds and then turn the key off you can see if any fuel leaks out of the lines after you shut off the key.
7. The injectors and/or "nut kit" are not difficult to remove and replace at this point. Put everything back in the reverse order of removal.
I always like to have a straightforward list of steps so I know what to expect when I undertake a new repair. I may have forgotten a few things here but it should be enough to let you know that it's an approachable and low-risk repair. There are also many threads previously posted on this forum that will give additional information. Try searching on "CPI" or "spider" to find them.
Illustrated even:
Fuel pressure regulator on Blazer 4.3L CPI W engine
That details the replacement of the FPR, but once you are in there, it isn't a whole lot different to replace the entire CPI *AND* 'nut kit' (internal lines). Do not forget to change the lines!
Fuel pressure regulator on Blazer 4.3L CPI W engine
That details the replacement of the FPR, but once you are in there, it isn't a whole lot different to replace the entire CPI *AND* 'nut kit' (internal lines). Do not forget to change the lines!
Believe me, you can do it yourself. But let's figure out if it really is the injector, just the fuel pressure regulator or nut kit - or both - or the electrical connector to the fuel injector. Or something else entirely...
Like the guys asked, what was it doing to make you take it in?
Like the guys asked, what was it doing to make you take it in?
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aerovette99
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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Sep 28, 2015 10:04 AM







