Heater Core... more than likely...
#1
Heater Core... more than likely...
Hey Guys and Gals!
New here to the site! Quick info bout myself and my ride....
Name is Amanda and I own a 1991 with 151000 miles. Has run very well but is finally having a few issues. This lil blazer has been in my family since it came off the line and have taken great care of it. But ever since it came to me... it started to well... you know. lol
So my Problem right now is the passenger side floor is overflowing with antifreeze. Its the Heating core (more than likely)... I was just woundering if anyone could tell me how hard it might hit the wallet and if this might be something I could fix myself with help. (cuz im just starting to learn how to work on different trucks, cars... lol)
Anyways, Im glad to be here and part of the site. Im hopeing that in the near future Il get to talk with people here to help me with Problems or even help get some ideas for the blazer.
Thanks!
Amanda (aka MidnightBlaze)
New here to the site! Quick info bout myself and my ride....
Name is Amanda and I own a 1991 with 151000 miles. Has run very well but is finally having a few issues. This lil blazer has been in my family since it came off the line and have taken great care of it. But ever since it came to me... it started to well... you know. lol
So my Problem right now is the passenger side floor is overflowing with antifreeze. Its the Heating core (more than likely)... I was just woundering if anyone could tell me how hard it might hit the wallet and if this might be something I could fix myself with help. (cuz im just starting to learn how to work on different trucks, cars... lol)
Anyways, Im glad to be here and part of the site. Im hopeing that in the near future Il get to talk with people here to help me with Problems or even help get some ideas for the blazer.
Thanks!
Amanda (aka MidnightBlaze)
#3
You should be able to get the heater core for around $30 or less. Below is what the Chiltons manual says about the removal and installation of the heater core.
The heater core is removable from under the right side of the instrument panel.
The heater core is removable from under the right side of the instrument panel.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Position a drain pan under the radiator, open the drain **** and drain the cooling system to a level below the heater core.
- Disconnect the heater-to-engine coolant hoses from the core tubes on the fire wall, in the engine compartment.
- From the passenger compartment (under the dash) remove the heater core rear case cover-to-cowl screws, then remove the cover from the vehicle.
- Remove the straps or brackets from each end of the heater core.
- Carefully remove the heater core from the cowl and case.
- Insert the heater core into the case, taking care not to damage the tubes as they are inserted through the cowl.
- Install the straps or brackets to the ends of the heater core and secure using the retaining screws.
- Install the heater core rear case cover and secure using the retaining screws.
- If moved for access, reposition and secure the dash mounted cabin light and housing.
- Connect the heater-to-engine coolant hoses to the core tubes.
- Connect the negative battery cable, then properly refill the engine cooling system.
- Run the engine at normal operating temperatures and check for leaks.
#4
Welcome, as for your heater core, its not that bad and you should be able to do the job yourself without paying a mechanic. Just have a couple beers cause they make the frustration a little less when doing these kind of jobs.
If you have small hands which most women do, you should not need to remove your dash cause you can get your hands up in there. You may just need to loosen some fasteners to get some wiggle room. I would budget your time for a whole morning and afternoon to get it done.
Parts you will need:
A gallon of coolant (you mix it with a gallon of water)
The heater core itself
Both heater hoses that you unhook, they are cheap and you can use black rubber garden hose or buy the hoses from the parts department
Tools you will need:
10MM & 7MM 1/4 drive sockets
basic screwdrivers
utility knife
elbow grease
have a look up under your passenger side foot area, there is a big black box made of plastic, the heater core is inside there. Have a look that its not the hoses themselves that are leaking into the cab, cause it may not be the heater core itself. Also have a look at the rest of your coolant hoses, it they are getting dry or balooning, you might as well change them out as well when you are dumping the cooling system. Hoses are cheap. there will be 2 fat ones coming off the radiator, and 2 going to the heater core.
Dont forget this forum either, you can get the help you need from us to tackle any job that truck is going to throw at you in the coming years. The people here are awesome and Ive gotten alot of help myself since joining up. Theres a few guys here that can tell you off the top of their heads how many threads are on the bolts that hold the gastank up, or what the bearing clearances are on the camshaft etc, they know these trucks better than they know their own families it seems
Throw up some pics of your truck too.
*neat trick* for tightening up hose clamps to know if they are tight enough. Hook a test light up to the (+) on your batter or a 12V source. Touch light to hose clamp, tighten hose clamp. When its tight enough, the test light will light up. If its too tight it cuts into the hose. This trick will not work if you unhooked the (-) on your battery though.
If you have small hands which most women do, you should not need to remove your dash cause you can get your hands up in there. You may just need to loosen some fasteners to get some wiggle room. I would budget your time for a whole morning and afternoon to get it done.
Parts you will need:
A gallon of coolant (you mix it with a gallon of water)
The heater core itself
Both heater hoses that you unhook, they are cheap and you can use black rubber garden hose or buy the hoses from the parts department
Tools you will need:
10MM & 7MM 1/4 drive sockets
basic screwdrivers
utility knife
elbow grease
have a look up under your passenger side foot area, there is a big black box made of plastic, the heater core is inside there. Have a look that its not the hoses themselves that are leaking into the cab, cause it may not be the heater core itself. Also have a look at the rest of your coolant hoses, it they are getting dry or balooning, you might as well change them out as well when you are dumping the cooling system. Hoses are cheap. there will be 2 fat ones coming off the radiator, and 2 going to the heater core.
Dont forget this forum either, you can get the help you need from us to tackle any job that truck is going to throw at you in the coming years. The people here are awesome and Ive gotten alot of help myself since joining up. Theres a few guys here that can tell you off the top of their heads how many threads are on the bolts that hold the gastank up, or what the bearing clearances are on the camshaft etc, they know these trucks better than they know their own families it seems
Throw up some pics of your truck too.
*neat trick* for tightening up hose clamps to know if they are tight enough. Hook a test light up to the (+) on your batter or a 12V source. Touch light to hose clamp, tighten hose clamp. When its tight enough, the test light will light up. If its too tight it cuts into the hose. This trick will not work if you unhooked the (-) on your battery though.
Last edited by ohsofly; 04-16-2010 at 03:31 PM.
#5
It's not that bad. I did it on my '93 Bravada myself, with help from
http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/vi...imate_controls
http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/vi...imate_controls
#6
You probally have to remove or at least get the radio to the side to access the top left cover bolts. There is an access panel in the glove box that will allow access to the top center bolt. The remaining bolts for the cover can be removed from underneath the dash. The other concern is the flexable air duct that goes into the top of the cover (Behind the radio). To remove the air duct a slight twist and pull up the same time and it can stay behind the radio. Installation of the flexable duct is push in and a twist. You need to remove the duct before attempting to pull the cover out or you will crack it the cover housing. (Trust me I learned the hard way). Removing the core is not that difficult once the cover is out. There are two straps that secure the core and you should be able to get by with removing the bottom screws and just loosening the top screws. The hard part is twisting the core and the pipes through the firewall during the removal and installation. If not done carfully you could crack a solder joint on the heater core pipes so be very carefull.
Last edited by mr.vls; 04-17-2010 at 01:13 PM.
#7
Hey everyone! Thanks for all the help and great Step-by-step instructions to get that heater core changed out. My dad had pulled apart the truck yesterday (I was at work.. ) Ya'll saved me over $350 with all the help and instructions. Ive never been smart enough to do things myself cept change my oil! so when I figured it was the heating core, I thought about just having it done by a mechanic... but when I heard that heater cores are just 30 bucks... I just couldnt have a mechanic charge me $320 just for labor! lol But once again thanks for the help! I really appreciate it guys!
#8
Glad you (or him) got 'er fixed
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