HELP!! Replaced 3 Hydr.Lifters,No Compression
 

I have a 1985 chevy. S10 Pup 2.8L carb.v6 twd...Started out doing a carb. rebuild kit,but once I removed the carb,it made such easy access to so many other areas,like my valve covers,EGR Valve,distributer,so I decided to replace the gaskets on my valve covers and the O-ring on my distributor,after taking my valve covers off,we noticed that one of the rods had worn a large hole in the rocker so I run to the wrecking yard and get a good used set of rockers and rods off of a chevy sonoma 2.8L...
We'll to make a long story short..We replaced the bad rocker and rod and 2 other rockers and rods that had thin rockers we tightened them like the Haynes book said,I removed all the lash and thin another 1.5 turns,put a new O-Ring on the dist.and the new kit in the carb.put it all back together but it wouldnt start.we got to thinking that maybe we had tighterned the rockers to tight and or the carb. float was set to high sense there was a lot of gas in the spark plug holes and there kept being a strong gas smell,so we took carb off and readjusted the float and removed the valve covers and unbolted and retightened the rockers again at .75 of a turn after lash is gone put everything back together tried to start it ..BUT NOW theres like no compression at all instead of a urh.. urh..urh..urh sound its like urrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr and still wont fire..the rotor in the distributer is turning and were getting spark,were getting gas,crank is turnin...WHAT HAPPENED TO THE LIFTERS? DID WE BEND THEM? ,BREAK THEM? SMASH THEM?
Were going to remove the valve covers and see if rockers are going up and down and I suppose relash them..
Are they perhaps stuck open? and if so is there away we can free them up? without removing the heads? Or dump this motor and get a differant one ?
:icon_hyper:thanks spyder:icon_doh:
you can email me if you like...
I gotta get my truck running asap!

knytespyder@yahoo.com

Well now comes the question did you set the lash at TDC? you might have gotten your timing waaaaaay of and you might have set lash accidently on the exhaust stroke so that some of your valves will be opened when they are suppose to be closed and vice versa.

Well I'm pretty sure we have the timing set at TDC,even though there are 3 marks on the Harmonic balancer,between the 3 of us that are working on it I think we have the rite timing mark figured out,is there anyway we could have over tightened them by turning 1.5 turns after all the lash is gone thats what one of the books said to do,or is there anyway possible that there not tight enough,by just tightening then .75 of a turn after lash is gone thats where there at now with no compression

Update 3 marks on Harmonic Balancer
 

Well I found out how the 3 marks work on the harmonic balancer... 1st mark is TDC for 1 & 4 cylinder 2nd mark is TDC for 2 & 5 cylinder and the 3rd mark is TDC for 3 & 6 cylinder

Leak down test
 

Well apparently know body has an answer for this problem.
Well...I will find the answer one way or another...
So were back to square one,valve covers removed did a leakdown test starting at 1 cyl @ TDC. air coming through the intake as well as exhaust loosened nuts on rockers and valves closed a little more but still not enough we did this with all of the cyl. the same way and they all were leaking..everything I keep hearing is that with all of the lash removed and if you turn the nut 1.5 turns more that I have overtightened and now the all valves are bent...well I call Bullsh--t these motors are not an interference motor so I can't believe that a 1.5 turns is going to be so tight as to bend a valve...so now were going to just remove all the lash with no extra turning and try and start it...if it does'nt start then I'm going to pull the intake and heads and ck.the valves.
I'll keep you posted
If anyone has any suggestions chime in