Help! Will crank over, just wont start! New Owner!
 

:icon_playing:(I Am A New Blazer Owner!)
I have an '83 Blazer 4x4 with the 2.8L, has standard transmission. I put a new battery in it, has fresh oil and clean fuel, have tried using starter fluid but it won't start. When I bought it they told me when it was parked, it had been running, just wouldn't idle. Since then they pulled the carburater off and cleaned it, I believe all the vacuum lines are present and hooked up. I know the throttle linkage is disconnected from the carburater, also when I push on the throttle (by hand) the two valves do not move, are they suppose to? I don't know if I have to rebuild the carb or not. I plan on checking the spark plugs to make sure they are sparking, but besides that, I am stumped. Can Anyone Help? Diagrams would help also(electrical, vacuum, "Anything"). Thanks in advance!
:icon_shrug: (P.S. Not A Professional Mechanic or Anything Like That! Just Enjoy Tinkering)

i'd check the carb, since it was last thing done and hasnt started since, how does it sound when cranking? or maybe spark plugs, wires, or something along lines of ignition, not sure really whats under the hood from here so i dont wanna start talkin about things that arent even there to be considered

I've rebuilt several 4 barrel Rochester Quadra-Jet carburetors with some good success. Yet once I had a 1 ton Chevy 4X4 wrecker that was having carburetor problems and got a shop to rebuild it because I did not have the time. That truck never run properly again with that carburetor on it. I never did figure out what they did to the carburetor, finally I bought a new one and that cured the problem.

Later on I did find out that the man that was suppose to do my carburetor did not, an inexperienced mechanic did it, and he surely messed up.

I'm not saying that is what you should do, just telling you the experience I had.

And as 90in87 suggested, being as it started this with the carburetor being rebuilt, that should be your starting point.

When you say you "push on the throttle (by hand) the two valves do not move" are you ta;king abput the throttle valve plates? They are supposed be screwed to the shaft. Sounds like I would pull the carb and go through it again myself. You can get kits for them and they have pretty good pictures of everything. If you don't want to mess with it there are guys around that do nothing but carbs. Flip of the coin if you'll find one in a junkyard in decent shape. Just make sure you can still read the numbers on the carb. I have an 84 factory service manual and it covers the 2SE pretty well. Are you getting fuel to the carb?

Thanks guys for the info! I will have to try it all! As far as when I crank it, the sound is pretty much the air being forced out the exhaust from the compressions...so its kinda just a hallow sound..I did check the plugs, and they don't look too bad, but probably just need to replace them, and I figure I might as well replace the wires while I am at it.. I have thought about pulling the carb back off and either going over it myself or finding someone that does it on a day to day, but as far as myself doing it, I have yet to find a actual kit for the carb.. I haven't really been able to tell if I am getting fuel to the carb or not, it doesn't smell like its getting wet, or let alone look like that, I plan on disconnecting the fuel line from the carb and putting a coffee can or something under it and cranking it over to see what happens, but I am sure the fuel filter needs replaced, and probably even the pump, I just haven't had the time to do much with it, I work nights and it has snowed pretty good the last couple days, and I prefer to keep my wife's car in the garage while its this crappy, since right now its our only vehicle.. Thanks again guys for the info!

Carb and fuel
 

Sounds like someone disassymbled the Quad, sprayed it with carb cleaner and put it back together...sort of. The Quad is a wonderful carb when cleaned properly and assembled correctly. The roll stamp numbers on the main body of the carb should start with either 170XXXXXXXXX or 70XXXXXXXX (early models) and should tell you what kit you need as it may not be the correct carb for your truck although most will work. These Quads cannot be cleaned by spraying with carb cleaner. I have used Hydro-seal for over 30 years and always soak each part for a minimum of 10 hours before using compressed air to clean and dry all air passages thoroughly after thoroughly rinsing with water. Pay particular attention to the metering rods, jets and where the checkball seats. When assembling check your float level (rise and drop) and set them correctly (see chart in directions/ GP-Sorensen recommended). Check top cover for warpage. Clean Idle adjustment screws with wire brush wheel and check metering rod passages...These have got to be clean. Take the time to insure that all linkages are set correctly (involves bending) and all screws are tight. Coat accelerator pump with a light lithium grease before installation. Lightly seat idle screws than back out 1 1/4 turns for initial startup. Be sure to flush fuel line between filter and carb before installation. Also check fuel to make sure it hasn't gone dead (drain tank and blow out fuel lines if it is). Vacuum routing can be found in most quality Automotive manuals,but be sure of Distributor advance (on the base plate), fuel bowl vent (on top cover) and Egr valve connection(s). Haynes manual will have a generic of most of the models of a Quad...get one. Hope this helps...short cuts cause problems.

2.8s don't have Quadrajets. They have either a Rochester 2SE for the 49 states version or a E2SE for California models and an ECM. As far as checking the linkages and hookups I would also recommend. These little 2 barrel carbs are pretty dependable once you get them set right. I have over 100,000 on my 84 Jimmy with the 2.8 and 2SE and it starts roght up and runs fine although it's going to have some work done on it during the upcoming restoration if I don't go with a 350 CID. You can buy some parts from LMC Truck. You really need to see of you've got fuel to the carb before ripping it off. Could just be a bad pump.

retraction/edit
 

Sorry Gimpy Blazer...you are correct...I saw JustJerry's thread and went off on a tangent...but the same rules apply to the 2 bbl also. I was trained on carbs by one of the best and have been building all types for 34 years now. The key to any rebuild is "clean, adjusted and assembled correctly" Thanks GB

NO, someone thought they could work on one that couldn't, all they could do was mess it up. There is many of that type of people around. I would have posted more facts about this matter yet I never thought anyone would get so critical about the matter, because:

I made that point only because everyone that clams to be good on carburetors, are not, and that might be the case with txsoldier74th 83 Blazer 4x4 with the 2.8L.

wizyrdofoz No problem. Just didn't want to confuse the guy.
I agree with JustJerry. There are a bunch of guys that claim to know carbs but don't. Carburetors are pretty easy once you've done a few. It's just the "doing a few" that's tough. Rochesters have several linkages that you have to set up as you go. You do this by tweaking (bending) linkage rods to get them on the money. Float level is important. I know LMC sells a gasket set (or tune up kit) for these. Here's the link straight to the carb page. You need to get some specs as to the number of carb that you have for the float setting if you're going to get into this. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cst/full.aspx?Page=133