Don't mind helping you out but please let me know the whole scoop. If you mentioned that the plenum was off it would have helped. I believe I also said to hook up the injector to hot and then ground the other jumper to actuate it. The reason is that you can get spikes and really fry stuff. I was trying to get you to simulate the PCM pulsing as much as possible.
As far as hooking a wire up and running the engine, I guess if you're comfortable doing it, go for it. I have no input on this one. I understand your eagerness to hear it fire off. I guess then you would know for sure. You're still gonna have to find and fix the wiriing though. One other thing to check is to make sure the Dark Blue wire at connector C103 has continuity all the way to the PCM, connector C211 (manual says it's the red one but haven't had a look at mine), Pin A16. This is identified as "Fuel Injector Control" on the wiring diagram and this is what controls the actual pulse.
C211 - Red 32 pin connector at PCM pin rows identified as "A" & "B" with 16 receptacles on each row.
C210 - Blue 32 pin connector at PCM pin rows identified as "E" & "F" with 16 receptacles on each row.
Hope thos helps you out.

 

ok...
i probed around a lil bit. at the injector, im getting a constant ground at the red wire with my test light. im getting continuity from the blue wire all the way to the a16 pin on the red plug on the comp under the dash using my ohm meter ,plug unplugged. also im not getting no power from the a16 wire to the injector when its plugged in trying to crank do you think maybe the comp is dead or something isnt triggering it to fire the injector

edit. just a thought..i have the upper plenum off the truck,being the sensors are all unplugged, do you think that has anything to do with the signal to the injector?

 

im kinda sceptical of running a hot wire to the injector to see if itll start up,i imagine itll just pour fuel instead of pulsing it ? im not in the mood to blow myself up!

 

OK. I wouldn't fire it up with a junper either. I cannot emphasize that your problem (or one of the biggest you have) seems to be not having 12 volts at the C103 connector Pnk/Blk wire from the ECM 1 fuse. I really think this is your biggest issue and you need to fix it first. I have told you this 3 times now. You are not supposed to have ground at the red wire at the injector. This is constant hot with the blue wire supplying the ground path to the PCM. This needs to be a methodical process of elimination (or repair) instead of trying to fix everything at once. As for power to or from the A16 wire (that's the Dk/Blu one), you are not supposed to. It's the ground for the injector. Please fix the Pnk/Blk wire at the C103 connector. You asked my advice and this is it. Don't mean to shound short but to be honest with you, you are not paying very close attention to stuff I tell you. If I have a moment (doctor appt) I will unplug my injector and see if I have ground at the red wire. Please let me know how you made out.

 

well gimpy,i wanna say thanks first of all.. i got it to run!!for the time being..
i pulled the connector from the firewall and inspected it a lil bit. the wire were all gooey with some tar like stuff? anyways i cut teh pink/black wire from the harness.somewhere inside the connector its grounding out. i clipped a 12 wire to the injector side,the fuel pump relay kicked on and after a couple turns it fired up. now i guess ill just run it to a fuse somewhere in the fuse box.
next concern is the trans mission. i beleive its the original 700r4, still has the tv. cable which is about 4 inches too short to somehow hook to the throttle body. i know from past experiences that "ll ruin it in a minute.im wondering if i can get a universal cable thats maybe longer and run that?
also whats the right way to set the timing? i dont know if its off but i wanna check, i believe you have to unhook or ground a wire somewheres?

 

The goopy stuff is di-electric and saves stuff from corroding. If you cleaned it off you should probaly get some and put it back.
I'm not a transmission man (yet but it's probably coming) so I can't help you with this one. You might check the routing. I have an article about adjusting the TV cable. I'll try to find the websitr and pass it on. Here is one. There are more if you run a search. Might even be on on this forum somewhere. I haven't looked.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm
To adjust the timing you have to get #1 cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke. Seeing as how you truck runs it's probably close already. Good luck trying see the marks on the harmonic dampener while the engine is running and trying to shoot a timing light in the little soace provided and see it. That engine is probably set at "0" degrees (mine is). This is how I did mine. I pulled the #1 spark plug out and bumped the engine over until I felt air pushing out of the plug hole. Then I lined up my marks like you're supposed to. Then I went under the front of the truck and mad a "new" reference mark at a different location on the dampener that would be easier to see (it's all relative isn't it?), put the plug and wire back on, hooked my inductive timing light and checked it out. before you do this you have to disconnect the distributor rbypass wire off the distributor. Should be Tan/Blk. You can buy a cheap light for about $25.00 at Harbor Freight that'll do the job if you don't have one already.