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New here - tips for air filter/oil change?

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  #11  
Old 02-20-2011, 12:44 AM
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the oil filter location on the 4wd blazer is actually so easy to locate, i wasn't expecting it.. i anticipated engine block mount and it took me probably 10-15 minutes to find it because it was literally TOO convenient.

Originally Posted by 89 Blazer Lebanon
By the way, make sure you use the right oil grade!
his blazer is more or less the same as mine so i expect it's rated for 5w30, though i run 10w30 full synthetic at the behest of a mechanic i know who says the 5w may just be too thin for the engine's age.. any thoughts on that? is the difference between those two grades even that dramatic?
 
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:21 AM
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Wow, thank you everyone for the input! I thought about an oil filter wrench while I was at autozone getting the oil/filter, but didn't think to ask. Once I go back in in the next few days, or my next paycheck, I'll have to get one for future reference. My truck is the 2wd.

I apologize for the absense, this morning I was on my way to a class for probation and the tread on my tire came off. Luckily the tire didn't pop so I was able to slow put-put my way to a parking lot, but since it was actually the spare (long story, basically hired a mechanic a long while back ago to replace clutch off craigslist. Bought pieces and paid for labor without written agreement, got shafted hardcore and wound up getting atleast equal money to what the truck was worth - got it back with the clutch parts I bought gone, and none of the work done, as well as the rear right tire bad and on the spare. lol never hiring someone off craigslist again for sure), I had none to replace it with, and because I'm somewhat low on money and was planning on going to FL, didn't want to pay 40$ to get it towed to a place nearby with an extra 60$+ charge for a used tire when I could get one myself for 40. Long adventure on account I had to wait til 2 til I could get it replaced, but thank God I was alright and everything went through well.

So the spark plugs are at the bottom of the engine then? Are there any threads giving descript details of how to do so? I reckon taking the wheels off isn't too bad, luckily I have a hydraulic jack so it won't be much a hassle, but where exactly are they? Or once I get to it, it will more or less be apparent? Are either sides more difficult than the other in terms of getting to/hassle to replace? I have a full socket set as well as a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive, a sparkplug socket (though I believe the rubber grommet inside to grip the plug is gone lol), as well as a 2'' and 6'' extention, as well as a u-joint. You think that all is enough to get the job done? And what is this mentioned of "cross threading"? Would you say a good idea in terms of putting the spark plugs back in would be to finger tight them as much as possible? Thank you all for answering all the questions, I know theres quite a bit just in this last paragraph heh.

EDIT: As well, when I replaced the oil, I didn't use the 5w30. Since its a higher mileage, I used the 10w40 with 1 quart (of the 4, though I added in an extra .5) of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. No engine problems as of yet, but I'll swear by Lucas stuff for sure in terms of transmission fluid, and since its much older with 200k+ miles, I figured it couldn't hurt. I know that the user's manual recommends 5w30, but do you guys think it'll make much a difference with 10w40+Lucas?
 

Last edited by SlapBassist531; 02-20-2011 at 02:27 AM.
  #13  
Old 02-20-2011, 08:55 AM
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You'll be able to see your spark plugs when you look through the wheel wells, at least you'll be able to see the wires going to them. Speaking of the wires, they're usually really hard to get off, and you don't want to pull them off by grasping the wires themselves, you want to grasp it by the boot as much as possible..I mentioned using the long boot off an old plug wire in an earlier reply. You could also use a short piece of rubber hose that would fit tightly on the plug..That's just to guide the plug in and tighten it to the point where you know it's not cross threaded..Most of them you can't reach with your fingers to tighten them, at least I can't..

As far as the oil, everyone has their own opinion about that. I use 10 w 30 in everything, year around, never had any problems. I've put 100,000 of the 150,000 miles that's on it and still doesn't burn oil, so it must not hurt it too bad..I've never been a big fan of additives of any kind in any thing. I've heard, but don't know for sure that if you use it in an old motor that's never used it before it can clog up stuff by loosing all the gunk..
Like I said, I don't know that for sure. I've never tried it.
 
  #14  
Old 02-24-2011, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ffox
You'll be able to see your spark plugs when you look through the wheel wells, at least you'll be able to see the wires going to them. Speaking of the wires, they're usually really hard to get off, and you don't want to pull them off by grasping the wires themselves, you want to grasp it by the boot as much as possible..I mentioned using the long boot off an old plug wire in an earlier reply. You could also use a short piece of rubber hose that would fit tightly on the plug..That's just to guide the plug in and tighten it to the point where you know it's not cross threaded..Most of them you can't reach with your fingers to tighten them, at least I can't..

As far as the oil, everyone has their own opinion about that. I use 10 w 30 in everything, year around, never had any problems. I've put 100,000 of the 150,000 miles that's on it and still doesn't burn oil, so it must not hurt it too bad..I've never been a big fan of additives of any kind in any thing. I've heard, but don't know for sure that if you use it in an old motor that's never used it before it can clog up stuff by loosing all the gunk..
Like I said, I don't know that for sure. I've never tried it.
so with the plugs, you can atleast see where they're heading via the wires, but more or less have to feel your way towards them. and so I understand, for putting in, basically use a rubber hose the same diameter as the sparkplug so i can spin the rubber hose rather than the plug (or the hose on the plug heh) into the engine head to start it in the engine, amiryte?

Ah i hear you on that. Don't really think it makes that huge of a difference, but I'm up to right about 207k miles now after a nice drive to Vero Beach, FL and back heh. Ran like a charm though. The Lucas stuff is an additive, but at the same time its not just an additive - atleast on par with that of you put in gasoline. I guess its like a more viscous oil that goes in, with some things in there to help leaks, etc. I remember talking to my brother the other day, that you can go as much as 80/20% ratio of Lucas/motoroil, but I figure a little bit hopefully shouldnt hurt. I've been putting some things in the fuel tank when I've filled up (Lucas carburetor/FI cleaner, then put 1 thing of STP injecter/carburetor cleaner that was more of a "maintainer" I suppose), and from what I can tell it seems perhaps it has been getting better mileage, but that could be due to the past 1600miles were almost all highway lol. What mileage do you normally go before an oil change? 3000? 4-5k? Do you fill it at exactly 4 quarts, or go a little more? I'll have to try the 10w30 and see how she runs next time around.

I recognize these posts can be pretty dang long lol. I suppose the gist of the text is me expanding on thought towards things to give information that I wouldn't mind any advice/hints/feedback, but the actual questions I've asked is at the end of each paragraph haha. Thanks
 
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