Proportioning Valve Issue Help Please
 

So I took my rig to a local mechanic and he said that my proportioning valve is bad and that is where I am leaking brake fluid from, but when I look at it there is a line a really short one that comes from underneath the valve and it is sitting crooked in the valve thus that is why it is leaking this line goes into a T section where it splits into 2 more lines. The mechanic told me just to buy a new valve and he would replace it for $250 plus I have to spend $250 on the part and he said it would be out of commission for 2 weeks if not longer... I don't have that kind of money or time I have tried putting the small line back in but it doesn't fit right it keeps going crooked and it won't go very far in can someone please tell me what the name of the small line is? so maybe I can just try and replace it before I try anything else. I was also told that the threading might be messed up but I figured I would just spend the money on the small line and see if that works. I need some answers asap. Thanks.

It is very possible that the line was cross threaded into the valve, which damaged the threads on the valve itself. That would explain why the mechanic wants to replace it. I am assuming you have a camera, can you get us a picture ? Of the valve, of the line being in there crooked, etc anything can help us help you.

You can look at an LMC truck catalog (lmctruck.com) and see if they list a part number for the line in question but it may just be listed as a brake line. In which case you would have to cut and flare your own brake line. Not too difficult to do, but if you do have to make your own line make sure to do it. Otherwise your line will leak and blow out.

Also, make sure you bleed your brakes after this repair. Bleeding the brakes gets all of the air out of your brake lines so you can stop properly and is very important (and easy) to do.

2 weeks? wtf. at my work im definitely the brake line guy as i get any kinda work related to brakes. i could have that swapped out in like 30-60 minutes IF none of the lines break and all the bleeders actually open. were you even able to find a s10 proportioning valve? i thought they were discontinued.

I would imagine either the mechanic is too busy to get to the truck right away, doesn't want to do it, or meant it would take him that long to get the part.

abig84 I found some prop. valves online but they run about $250+ and the mechanic wasn't all that busy he only had 1 other car that he was just finishing up on so I am not sure why he said 2 weeks he probably just doesn't want to do it like you said Random.

Proportioning valves just don't wake up one morning and decide to quit.
Usually has to have something else wrong.That is probably why it was cross threaded.
You can find these things at a salvage yard or u pull it for next to nothing.
If your are like me...financially challenged,you have to make the best with what you have and stretch the life out.
Another option you have is an aftermarket proportioning valve such as willwood.
I found one on ebay a while back.
Using one of these you can eliminate that section of the valve leaking.For instance I bought mine for the rear disk brakes I installed years ago.Takes some fine tuning.
Also remember to get the correct line size.I think the older one are 3/16.
Is that correct guys?
If all else fails I have some good OEM valve for rear drum brakes I have saved.
Hope this helps.

If you do go the used route, make sure it's from the same vintage and with the same braking options you have. (anti lock, rear disc/drum, etc)

i agree


Its possible the line is cross threaded...

but its also possible you have a leak in the line where the fitting is ..
Like this (circled in red) thats where they were leaking

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/...2/PICT1644.jpg

I just replaced these on my bronco ... they were leaking right by the fitting its self

Edit: I found a valve for 95 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1996-Ch...71fb8b&vxp=mtr

if you can find one of those 10 % coupons it could save ya around 15 bucks too

Thanks for the advice gio , I went to NAPA yesterday and they were of no help what so ever because I was going to try and replace the line first and they had no idea what I was talking about and neither one of the 2 guys would even bother to step right outside the door to try and help me they just told me to buy a brake line and cut it and then flare the end to fit and then they just threw out some random size so I am not very happy with NAPA right now. What if the line is cross threaded? does that mean I have to buy a prop. valve?

yup if its cross threaded then the valve has to be replaced