Temp Gauge Woes...
 

OK, so the vehicle is in my sig line... It's been sitting for (3) years before I purchased it for $100 a few weeks ago. I have already put a fuel tank/pump/sender in it, transfer case seals, trans service, oil change, thermostat, temp sender in the head for the guage,connector for said sender,and radiator cap in it.

It seems to be acting right, from the standpoint of getting warmed up, stat opening up, up to pressure, etc., but the guage works its way up way too high... No boiling off or anything like that, and the guage does work, because it starts out cold, then goes up slowly as the engine warms up, but goes up too far... Before (or right when)the stat even cracks, the guage reads 260F, when BOTH temp senders measure 330-360 ohms, which would mean somewhere in the 210 - 220F range, given that I think these are standard-ish senders (1365ohms @ 100F, and 55 ohms @ 260F)...

So my question is; is there a way to replace JUST the temp guage portion like the earlier "round guage" S-10's, or is it a "cluster" like the later ones are? (this thing has the "bar" guages)

Thanks,
Mike

RE: Temp Gauge Woes...
 

OK, it seems that it is a "cluster", so I guess my new questions are;

1. Where is the part of the gauge that tells the needle (bar) where to go? Is it on the back of the gauge, or is it somewhere under the dash?

2. If it is on the gauge pack, can one just replace the movement? (I assume it's a Darsemval Meter Movemet, like most older, non-stepper-motor gauges are?)

Thanks,
Mike

RE: Temp Gauge Woes...
 

Really? Nobody knows?

Mike

RE: Temp Gauge Woes...
 

I haven't had the cluster apart from my 85 yet. I would tend to think that maybe you could replace the area you need to on it. I know on the later (years just after) you can replace the individual gauges.

RE: Temp Gauge Woes...
 

OK, thanks... I guess I just need to take this one apart...

Though, being that it is at the bottom of the gauge when it is open, and at the top of the gauge when it's less than ~350ohms, I am thinking about just replacing the sender with a sender from an "idiot light" model, so that at least I know if it overheats, and the "check gauges" light isn't always on, crying wolf, possibly stopping me from noticing low voltage or oil pressure... I guess I'll see...

Thanks,
Mike