Thanks for the help that sounds like it will work


I am going to stop by the parts store and pick up the switches up on the way to work tomorrow and imma try it out here...heres to hoping I dont get stuck at work lol.

Thanks again for the help and I will update this thread tomorrow and let you know how it went.

 

My 89 S10 Blazer is set up that way with a toggle switch and a push button start. I joke that it is the easiest truck in Piatt County to steal! Anyway, Just a word of advise, be sure that you get a heavy duty push button for your starter. I went through two other push buttons before I wised up to this. I haven't had a problem with the heavy duty button since I put it in (about a year ago). Good luck.
-Kpiper

 

Are you not using the key to unlock the wheel at all? In replace of a capable button, a relay would be best.

 

Well I hooked it up yesterday and the switch works great...except that the radio does not cut off and is still draining power...so I have to figure out which wire that is then I should be good to go.

Thanks again for the help!

 

Nice, good job. Are you still using the key to unlock the colum? Also the reason you did this is because you said that the ignition gets stuck "on"? Does that mean that the radio would still be on then? So you need to cut the signal coming from the ignition switch.

 

Ahshoot your right I didnt think about that...that is why the radio isnt turning off it thinks it should be on.

Yea I dont have to worry about unlocking the colom because as far as it knows, the truck is running all the time.

Getting closer and close everyday, sadly the next few days I wont have time to tinker with it though

 

Not sure if this will help you, but here it is.....





PART
COLOR
LOCATION

12 VOLT CONSTANT
RED (+)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

STARTER
PURPLE (+) or YELLOW (+)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

STARTER 2
N/A


IGNITION 1
PINK (+)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

IGNITION 2
N/A


IGNITION 3
N/A


ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1
ORANGE (+)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2
N/A


KEYSENSE
N/A


PARKING LIGHTS ( - )
N/A


PARKING LIGHTS ( + )
BROWN (+)
@ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or in DRIVERS KICK PANEL

POWER LOCK
LIGHT BLUE (TYPE C)
IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL

POWER UNLOCK
BLACK/WHITE (TYPE C)
IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL

DOOR TRIGGER
WHITE (-)
@ PIN SWITCH or COURTESY LIGHT

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION
USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay


TRUNK RELEASE
BLACK (+), Requires Part #775 Relay
@ RELAY UNDER LEFT SIDE OF DASH

SLIDING POWER DOOR
N/A


HORN
BLACK (-)
@ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

TACH
WHITE
@ IGNITION COIL

WAIT TO START LIGHT
N/A


BRAKE
WHITE (+)
@ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

FACTORY ALARM DISARM
N/A


ANTI-THEFT
N/A
You may want to hook up your 12v constant(red) to your toggle switch(power in)then your toggle switch (power out)to your ignition wire (pink). That way when your toggle switch is "on" it would be that same as having the key in the on possition. When the toggle switch is "off" it would be the same as having the key off. You should then be able to take power from your ignition wire and run it to your push button (power in), then run the wire(power out) to your starter wire(purple or yellow). I hope this makes since.
Good Luck,
-Kpiper

 

Currently I have:

Toggle switch:
12v constant RED
then
Ignition wire PINK and Accessory ORANGE

But the radio is still on when my toggle switch is turned off...but keep in mind that my ignition is stuck in the "on" possition...any ideas on how to kill all power that goes to the ignition? Perhaps I tied into the wrong 12v Red wire?

 

No I think everything is good. Just cut the orange wire that comes down the column before it goes into the plug. That should be the wire carrying the signal that is stuck on.

 

All of this trouble and I have to ask one question... Why not just fix the faulty ignition switch...