My 99 blazer has been having a few problems. Sometime in December I started to leak tyranny fluid, from the back of the transmission. It has just been to cold to work on it so I’ve been filling the fluid with lucase tyranny fluid. When I drive down the road at around 40-50 mph my vehicle revs up and my tack bounces around from 2000 to 3500 rpm. Once I hit around 65 it stops revving up. Also it always use to drop down to 500 rpms or so at stop lights but now it stays at around 1200. Not sure if I have a problem with my tranny, or a vacuum line off, but my blazer seems to shift at a higher rpm now as well.

Also recently I cut a hole in my cat because it was rattling… I cant get the thing off for anything!!! Once I did this I increased my mpg by 2, so it was definitely clogged up pretty good. Wish I could get those bolts off so I could get a new one… might just take it to the shop, but im kindda poor at the moment.. It wasn’t exactly after I did this that I started noticing the tac jumping around

And why im at it my 4x4 doesn’t work, I looked at the vacuum line under the battery , and it was off… put it back on but there is a rubber boot it is connected to that is ripped as well ( in a way it reminds me of a cv boot)… when I was putting the line back on fluid pored out of the boot??? I took pictures of the rip, so I can post if you guys don’t know what I’m talking about, but my 4x4 still doesn’t work and I was wondering if that had anything to do with it.

The other problems I have include:
Ac doesn’t work
Front u-joint is bad
Brake light just came on
Back glass window lock doesn’t work
Drivers window motor is going out

I’ve been telling myself over and over again not to jump into a new vehicle, fix things on the blazer when I can and that in the long run ill be better off… but I’m honestly not sure because a 300 dollar truck payment, sounds like a lot less then 150 dollar payment with 150 dollars worth of parts and a huge headachexz all the time.

 

I have not had the reving issue you are having, but mine has had some trouble when first starting it up on some of the really cold days this winter. Once it warms up it drives fine though.

I also have the rattling noise coming from my CAT. Every now and then the noise will stop and the check engine light will come one with the code for Catalytic Efficiency. But then the rattle starts again and the light goes off. So once it warms up here I am going to have to try to replace it as well. Someone told me that PB Blaster could help loosen the bolts to get the old cat off to replace it.

My 4wd also stopped working this winter as well. It sounds and feels like the transfer case is trying to engage the 4wd but it just does not feel like it is engaging. I have not checked the vacuum lines yet because I have been busy and it is still cold here.

Paul

 

yeah my problem doesn't go away with warm weather. I guess my plan of attack is to fix the cat (mostly because its annoying now that i drilled a hole in it) change my plugs and wires, and when I'm working on that hopefully ill find a vacuum line that came off.

what im really mad about is that when i lived in Texas (or the gay cowboy state) i took it in to have both u-joints fixed. dropped it off for the day, came back at five and it still wasn't done. ended up having to wait 3 hours for it to get done, because they ordered the wrong u-joint 2 times. i even asked them to do the front one as well, but when they got done i asked if they did it and they told me they dint have time... i was pretty PO and even told them they need to take some money off of the bill and they refused and literally told me that they dint need my business and that they worked there *** off to get my blazer back to me at a decent time... they did end up giving me the part for free, but that was only because the parts store messed up and gave them the wrong u-joint the 2nd time. the first time they gave the parts store the wrong vehicle information. what a joke and 4 months later the front u-joint is going out. guess ill have to pay 20 dollars and do it myself...

oh and as far as the 4X4 my clunks like its going into 4 wheel drive but it doesn't...

 

after 170000 miles unless you have removed the cat previously the bolts on you cat will basically be welded in place and you'll probably have to cut it off. You're probably past the point of PB blaster.

 

Wow! Well,burnout350...you have your hands full! You should've NEVER cut a hole in the cat! That is easy to remove with the right tools! A torch is required to sever the front flange bolts,and pull the driveshaft and you can twist it out! Next:All of the issues you are relating are common Blazer issues and virtually ALL can be solved using the site specific search engine! You obviously have a bad rear trans seal which was most likely compromised by that shop that did the u-joints-that job only takes a little over an hour-not all day! You may need to look into a vacuum leak as to your rev problem,because it sounds like the TPS is trying to compensate for the loss of vacuum! It sounds like this Blazer was rode hard and put up wet and not too well maintained either! Hopefully you don't have that much in it! These units will do easy 250K+ if taken care of! It seems that you should do your home work and see if this one is worth keeping! Consider buying a so-called junk one! You will be amazed at what is out there!Good Luck!

 

to be honest, a think a grandpa and grandma owned this blazer originally, when i got it at a 120,000 it dint have a scratch or even a dent, and zero rust. It had been serviced every 3000 miles, and was very well taken care of.

i paid 2700 for in in 2008, but i took out 5000 so i could use some on my Camaro. ended up replacing the rear calipers brakes and rotors, along with the front brakes and rotors the first day i got it (turned out the rear calipers where locked up). then the next week i had it the water pump blew out on it... fun easy fixes thought, i new it need brakes when i bought it. water pump was a surprise but i used some of the extra money i took out for the camaro to fix it.

do you think a hand held torch, the kind you can buy at wal-mart would help me on the cat? im guessing it would just heat the bolt up making it expand and even harder to get out... but i dont have acess to a torch that i could use to cut it out... i can get a grinder on a few of the bolts... ugh wish i had a lift lol id have it out in no time...

 

lol your blazer sounds like mine im fighting the rev problems and atf leaking too , my leak seems to be coming from up around the vent at the front of the trans. it was causing random clouds of smoke when it would drip on the exhaust but idk im still working on it. im going to try the either trick and see if i can find a vacuum leak . also my 4x4 was out to this winter and i finally removed the battery and took a look at the vacuum actuator and mine also had just a tiny whole in it . spent 45 bucks for a new one and it works like a dream .now just to fix the bad reving between 2000 and 3500 and the leak :/

 

A propane torch will NEVER get those fasteners hot enough IMO! Only,what about
700* (?) You will need oxy/acet to get them to 1500* or higher. Don't worry, the flanges can handle that heat in my experience. Good luck

 

170K? Trust me, it only gets worse. My son has a '95 with 250k+ on it, and it has been a constant pain in the butt. I've own my fair share of vehicles in my days, and I have never had to replace so many parts on any vehicle as I have on this Blazer. Fuel pumps, power window motors and switches, rear wiper motors, rear hatch latch, 4x4 vacuum actuator/IP panel switch, electronic motor in transfer case, ball joints/u-joints, etc., etc., the list goes on and on. While I like the styling and versatility of the truck , I dislike (and have yet to figure out how to correct) the vague steering and marshmallow suspension roll. The truck is not for someone who does not like to work on their own vehicles. It definitely keeps my skills in check. As a matter of fact I'm heading back out the door again to try and figure out again why the instrumentation panel lights, heater control lights and running lights on the rear will not work now (which is why I'm here on the forum again anyway). If you can find one with a manual 4x4 engagement system, roll up windows and about half of the electronic gimmicks, it would be a keeper!

Rogue-

 

Gee, that was a helpful post