The drop to 40psi is good information. If there was a poor connection at the injector, it wouldn't open, and the pressure wouldn't drop. If there is an interruption in power or ground to the pump, the injector would still open, and if the pump isn't providing pressure to the injector, the pressure would drop.

Couple things to check:

Pull the plenum and look for "fuel washing" on the lower intake manifold. It will be a golden brown color if somehing is leaking in there, (normally it's all black with carbon depostis). Usually close to the regulator or the lines to the injector is where they leak. Next, check for a poor connection in the fuel pump power and ground circuits. Could be a poor connection at the pump module connector, failing fuel pump relay, corroded or loose ground near the tank, etc.

 

If you are really good you might get to the injector through that hole but it only takes 15-20 minutes to pull the top off the plenum.
I finally found a scanner that connects to my '95. It was a Craftsman 87702 scanner. It does not give anything but trouble codes but at least it connects.
It was J1850-VPW protocol. I tried Harbor Freight, Autozone, and Oreillys scanners before and they would not connect.
The way I understand it, the crank sensor does all the work and the cam position just makes sure it sees the #1 cylinder at the correct time. Both the ignition coil and injector fire once for each cylinder(3 times total) during a full rotation of the crankshaft and 6 times total through the complete rotation of the distributor.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but injectors generally have +12 to them at all times when the key is turned to run. The PCM grounds the injector, so if you have a bad connection at the injector you should have +12 on one side and 0 on the other. If it is a good connection you should see +12 at both sides.

Listen to the Captain, he'll steer you in the right direction.

 

What I meant to say was after several days of testing the fuel pressure when I turn the key over is that, on the third or fourth day of testing it wouldn't go over 40 but it would hold there at 40 so that clued me in that the fuel pump was bad so I replaced it. Right now it gets 62 pounds when cranking over and holds at 60lbs. If I can actually get it to run at the higher rpms if I revv it up it goes to 68lbs so I know the fuel pressure regulator is working. So I did a test with initially turning the ignition the the run position and it immediately went up to 61pounds and it's holding that pressure after turning off the ignition. Then I pulled the fuel pump relay. Then I cranked it over again and it still held at 61 pounds and its getting great spark so I know its not the crank sensor. That tells me that the injector is not firing. So then I squirt some starting fluid in it to get it to start with the fuel pump relay still disconnected And I push the gas pedal down after it starts and get it to rev up to around 2500 -3000 RPM then the fuel pressure dropped on the gauge so I know the injector opened up at that point because the fuel pressure dropped. So I guess I'm trying to figure out why the injector isn't wanting to open at idle could the throttle position switch actually prevent the injector firing at idle if it was bad?

 

Is there an aftermarket alarm or remote starter on this vehicle? By your tests and results, it's acting like a Passkey problem, or aftermarket piece shutting off the injector.

EDIT: ..."could the throttle position switch actually prevent the injector firing at idle if it was bad?"

No, but a poor connection at the injector could.

 

Thanks Capt. no it does not have an aftermarket pass key and it doesn't have a stock factory one. Okay so I will be pulling the intake off tomorrow and looking into this to see if that connection is bad it's not running rich when it does and did run normal. Is it possible the injector is bad and therefore it only fires when it gets a little more signal at a higher RPM?

 

Here is a video of what it's doing when it does start if I squirt some starting fluid into it and then immediately push down and pump on the gas so I can get it to stay running.

http://vid197.photobucket.com/albums...i/IMG_8742.mp4

 

Bad link, video doesn't work.

Does the "Security" light work in the instrument cluster? Is it ON when you try to start the engine? Does your key look similar to these? Looking specifically for the silver strip surrounded by black, (looks like short a piece of wire). http://www.seattle247locksmith.com/images/vats-keys.jpg


Check the injector connector and wires: make sure the terminals in the connector actually fit tightly to the injector, and that the insulation and wires are not damaged.

 

That's weird the link works for me. As mentioned before it does not have a security system on it even an aftermarket one. The key does not have the little resistor. It must be an injector problem or injector wiring problem I'm going to try to get that tuning valve off without taking the intake off and see if I can access it that way if I can't then it's the manifold. Anyway thanks for helping. Do you happen have a picture of what the injector wiring looks like is it like a TBI injector 2 pin connector?

 

This is what you'll see with the plenum removed:




It is a single injector with a two wire connector right on top. This one is actually pretty clean, usually they're black with carbon. When the EGR valve opens, the entire plenum is filled with exhaust gas. You can see the EGR passage in front, small hole with carbon.

 

I got that same picture I was just looking for myself sorry I'm being so lazy I do like clean emissions but damn those EGR valves! I sure it gets really hot inside of there and that that connector could be very brittle.