So I've been on here for nearly an hour searching through previous posts and can find close problems, but not one that seems to be the same as mine. If someone could offer a suggestion to another post or suggestions on what to try I would deeply appreciate it. And I'm sure you can see I am NEW to this site so please bear with any of my ignorance.

1999 Blazer 4.3L V-6 4X4 4 Door:

Last year I began having cold start issues, a mechanic friend replaced my Spark Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, and Rotor. It seemed to work until I got stranded at work on a single digit temperature day. Next he replaced the Fuel Pump and Filter, it worked for the next cold morning, but then the next day: crank but no start. So I replaced the Ignition Control Module, seemed to be it for about a week until my 3rd crank no start. So I replaced the Coil, and it seemed to work for the rest of the year. Then it started up again and he looked at all of the electrical stuff and said his next best bet was the ignition switch, I just finished installing that. It is still cranking but not starting. I shot a decent amount of starter fluid into it and still no start. He suggested I have my wife crank it while I hold the coil wire a bit away from the coil and look for sparks, there was some spark. So he said to turn the key to ON and try pushing in the Schrader (spelling?) Valve in to see if anything came out, it squirted a bit but was not a steady flow/spray. So he suggested I check the sensor near the Crank Pulley for corrosion/frayed wires-it looks fine. And now I'm on here and what seems to be millions (obvious exaggeration) other help sites and keep finding close problems but nothing that seems to be the exact same as my own. ANY help would be great, and once again sorry if this is covered elsewhere and I somehow overlooked it. And in case its not evident I am NOT the most mechanically intelligent person.

 

*Moving to 2nd Gen Tech* - The Forum Help & Suggestions Center is for help with the forum itself (software, etc).

Sounds like your "mechanic" replaced a lot of parts at your expense without a clear path in diagnosis... I hope that the parts were of good quality and not cheap knockoffs that weren't worth the cardboard box they came in. Often poor quality parts can make things worse and the bad part is you think you eliminated those components as a cause by replacing them.

For spark, you need to have a nice, intense spark that is timed properly. Having spark does not necessarily mean that the spark is timed properly. A poor quality cap/rotor may work for a bit and then go out on you.

Another area to look is at the gear on the bottom of the distributor. If it is worn, it could throw the timing off. Before you pull the distributor, mark the position of the rotor tip on the base of the distributor. Then, just as soon as you it up about an inch, mark the 2nd position.

 

Id start with doing some simple tests. A comp check, leak down test and fuel pressure test. Then check to make sure timing is correct. Pull the plugs to see their condition. A fuel/ignition system can foul plugs pretty quick as well if things aren't running properly.

 

First off, thanks for the thread redirection, and I don't know that I can apologize enough, it took me nearly 20 minutes just to figure out how to post a thread, only to find I did it in the wrong area.

Anyhow, back to my Blazer: (and swartlkk's suggestions) So I checked the Distributor as you instructed and it looks good, far better than the original he took off last year (melted plastic and corrosion on the metal). As for the cap and rotor, they both look the same as they did when I bought them from AutoZone (I'm assuming that's good). As for the quality of the parts: Plugs and Wires were Auto Lite from O'Reilly's; Cap, Rotor, and Distributor were Accel from AutoZone; Ignition Module was Master Pro Ignition from O'Reilly's; Coil was Duralast from AutoZone (against mechanics advice but I was in a financial pinch at purchase time, he seems to be very ANTI-Duralast); Fuel Pump and Filter were OEM from CarQuest; and Ignition Switch was ACDelco from Advance Auto Parts. So if you think any of these brands maybe the issue please let me know and if it is affordable I'll make the switch. (and 93formula's suggestions) the fuel check came back fine he said, and his friend was borrowing his computer and wouldn't have it back until Monday at least, and I accidently forgot to mention the 'leak down test' while he was here. I've never heard of this test, is there a way a mechanically/tool limited person could do it or is there a special knowledge/tool for it.

I also did try and start it again while typing this post as I was in the garage getting the part box information (so I could tell you what/where I got them) and when I step on and off the accelerator while cranking there were a few times where it sounded as if it was ALMOST there but not quite (maybe nothing but it sounded more promising than it has in the past two weeks)

I do appreciate you fellas insight, I don't have a ton of money so I really want a garage to be last resort as they charge you an arm and a leg and at this point I would have to have it towed since I can't even get one start out of it, not to mention I have a crappy old 94 Regal for work and our family car is a RWD Grand Marquis so I hate for my wife to drive it with my son in it when snows, and she LOVES her Blazer so she's not to ecstatic about its recent starting plight. Thanks again!

 

Every no start issue i have had ended up being those damn poppet injector. Five 4.3s and two 5.7. Most the time they would not start even if i used starting fluid because it was already so flooded. With a few injectors stuck open.

 

x2....my sister had a '94 with Central multiport injection and it was leaking internally in the manifold. Ran rough and was hard to start. Took me forever to trace that down as it wasn't throwing any lights. Might be worth a look, from what I know it was actually a somewhat common problem.

 

do you smell fuel ?

 

So it's been a while since I've posted, I nearly forgot that I had asked you for help. So far I took it to the local shop and he said it was because I had the wrong plugs (not Platinum as suggested) so I replaced the plugs with Platinums. Still didn't start and he said everytime it gets cold the plugs were coming out wet, and said it about had to be the computer messing up. So my wife and I took it to the GM Dealer and dropped it off, they have not called me back yet so we don't know anything yet, but from what the original mechanic/friend is saying it may be as jacobcnc and tntfaguy said and the poppet (spelling?) arent closing all the way when it gets cold so its flooding out, and even in my limited mechanical knowledge I understand that would nearly always prevent me from starting because the plugs can't really spark liquid. Hopefully I get it fixed for good soon and I will tell you all the final problem in hopes to maybe save someone my troubles in the future. Once again thanks for all of the help!

 

wonder what the actual fuel pressure readings are or will be. Knowing these numbers, exactly, would 'put to bed' certain items. Had issues with Carquest pumps before-but have had issues with other items as well...good luck-jerry

 

Just went through this with my 99 this week. Have someone turn the key on while you are under the rear and listen to hear the fuel pump. If you don't hear it bang on the tank and it will run for a couple seconds and then stop. After trying to start it in that condition it will be so flooded.
A new fuel pump fixed my no start condition. After you put the pump in,you should have about 64lbs. of fuel pressure up front. Hold the gas to the floor,This shuts off the injectors and will not flood it anymore. Put a large battery charger on it and crank it till it starts.