First off i'd like to say Hello to everyone as this is my first post.

I've been searching these forums for the past couple of days and found most of the answers that i've needed. but i've come across a rather large snag and was hoping for a "work around" from the Blazer gods.

so 2 days ago my GF blew the front passanger metal brake line at the bend where it connects to the rubber one. so i resort to these forums and see how to go about replacing it. get the new pipe, bend it so it fits to the best of my inexperienced abilities. checked for any further leaks and none were found.

next i figured that all i would have to do is bleed that line cause it was the only one that would have air in it. i left the line dripping and the reservoir never went dry. but when i went to lossen the bleeder it snapped off....

so now i figure im screwed. so i called my "backyard mechanic" friend to give me a hand bleeding the brakes. so now the bleeders would not move or turn on the back either. so my friend said that if we just bleed the brakes from where the rubber hose connects to the caliper then that should be just as good if not the same. so after bleeding them all the peddle still goes to the floor.

he suggests that its the master that went too. so i went out and got one of them and proseeded to put that in (bench bleeding it first), then bleed the brakes again (the same way as before) and i still have no peddle.

so after all is said and done im at a lose as to what my next move would be =(

thanks in advance for any help

 

There's no problem that can't be solved by throwing sufficient amounts of cash at it. A little bit of air goes a long way to a bad pedal. The caliper you broke the bleeder on? Go buy a rebuilt one. Replace it & bleed it. There's a chance you did wreck the master going to the floor with the pedal, however after replacing it you do need to bleed at all 4 corners. To get seized bleeders out requires a 6 point socket and application of a fire wrench (torch) around the bleeders for a few minutes before trying to loosen them. It's a "feel" thing to know the difference between you need more heat or more force on the ratchet and I don't know how to define it. All I can tell you is about 3 minutes of heating all around the bleeder and use 1/4" drive, brute force is not the solution. Keep a constant smooth force on the ratchet and keep it square, don't pull at an angle. If it breaks loose and starts to seize again after a turn stop and heat it up again for a minute and try to get 3 turns out of it. Replace the caliper and see where you stand before attempting the other 3. If you get the other 3 loose and bled your next project is buy new bleeders. They just need to be snugged up, not manly-man tight.