thanks captain- i have double / triple checked this. NO backfire , no codes. Even put in a new module in distribor just reaching out the the extremes and same result. It just chugs a couple minutes and dies. even if i add fuel to intake. Welcome any other suggestions

 

How did you determine # 1 was at TDC of compression and not exhaust?


FYI: The sensor in the distributor is the camshaft position sensor and it will not cause a no start condition. You can unplug it and the engine will start and run fine, (assuming the engine runs)


EDIT: you mentioned "It just chugs a couple minutes and dies."

A couple of minutes, or seconds?

 

used pressure/ vaccum gauge for TDC. and chugs about 45seconds to a minute or so.

 

When #1 piston is going up on the compression stroke, both valves are closed. With the spark plug removed, you get a strong push of air. When #1 piston is going up on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open, and the push of air is noticeably less. If you're manually turning the crank, you'll never tell the difference in air pushes. If you use the starter to crank it, you can easily hear/feel the difference. While it's cranking, listen for the strong push on every other crank rotation. Time it so you let off the starter just after the soft push, and before the strong one. Then manually rotate the crankshaft clockwise ONLY, slowly with a socket & ratchet until the dampener marks line up like in post #9, (should be less than one revolution). #1 piston is now at TDC of the compression stroke. Install the distributor so the rotor points to the "6", (or within a few degrees) on the distributor housing when it's fully seated against the intake manifold.

 

cold bad weather here and vehicle is outside . I am going to start from scratch and set up timing and dist. fuel pressure ck as suggested by your posts as soon as a 35 degree day pops up, hopefully tomorrow We shall see the results. Any other things you think I should ck also? thanks

 

woo hoo it hit 40deg. reset everything. NOW it tries to runs. Engines struugles and lopes at a low speed. no matter if accerate it. NO codes. Spark GOOD. I need this vehicle badly rigt now. I take any any reconmendations on what to try now

 

One thing that could throw you for a loop on the timing, is if the outer ring on the vibration dampener has slipped on the hub. This is an image of a generic dampener, the black ring is rubber. It can deteriorate and allow the outer part of the dampener to slip, which causes the timing marks to be off however far it slips. Check it closely for cracks etc, they have been known to slip on this engine.



Just an FYI on this, the oil cooler lines are routed fairly close to the dampener, and they are known to leak oil, (very common problem, as in, eventually they all leak). If enough oil gets on the rubber ring, it will deteriorate, and the outer ring can slip.

 

If you had rpm above 2k, and no P1345 in memory, the distributor is meshed correctly. The DTC will not set below 2K rpm, even if it's not meshed correctly.

At this point, I'd check fuel pressure and leakdown, and make sure the fuel filter is not restricted. If that's OK, remove both upstream oxygen sensors and see if it affect idle quality.

 

well thank you all. I started from step one and double and triple checked everything as i went. I was off one tooth on distribitorand I had a bad fuel line connection, still have a misfire code opo up eevry now and then now sure why. May be bad plug wire

 

If the SES light stays off, (no P1345) when rpm is above 2K, the distributor is meshed correctly, sounds like you have it correct now though. Just because the SES light is off, doesn't mean camshaft retard is correct. If it's out of spec, crossfire will occur inside the distributor cap causing a misfire. It is adjusted by rotating the distributor while viewing camshaft retard on a capable scan tool. Spec is zero degrees, plus or minus 2 degrees.