When I release the E brake, the foot pedal doens't want to come up at all now... Used to be that it would take a couple slight pulls of the release and it would pop up but now nothing... The pedal doesn't have much on it either. I tried to adjust this once before but couldn't figure out the setup. Looked like there was a small drum type inner brake on the rear discs that actually was the E-brake. It this the case? I would like to ask for some direction in how to adjust then as well as service. The High dollar, 3 vol. manual that I picked up is not worth the powder to blow it to hell without being able to figure out how to read the manual and make sense of the diagrams etc...

/any help appreciated...
thanks....
Bruce

 

My searching turned up two options in a reply to your post almost a year ago.

https://blazerforum.com/m_123230/tm.htm

I would like to add to this question. I recently swapped out rear axles and read from the above reply that the e-brake needs to be adjusted because it was removed. When I look at where the cable meets the lever, I see the lever is pulled up some (partially engaged). Is this a cable adjustment issue or an adjustment behind the rotor itself?

 

Probably just a cable adjustment. The cable and turnbuckle beneath the drivers door controls tension and load on the line (but not force applied to brake drum). When I thought that was the way to get the brakes to actually hold the truck...I tightened the crap out of it. The pedal wouldnt even make it to the floor it was so tight. I would imagine it works the same in reverse...too loose = too much slack = no return by the pedal...

The shoe and drum in the back is what actually holds the wheel still. You would want to replace that if you were getting the pedal firmly to the floor, it returned properly, but the brakes still dont hold the truck still.

 

Ok, just need to find out where this equalizer nut is:

[blockquote]quote:

Adjustments

The park brake must be adjusted any time the park brake cables have been replaced or disconnected, or if under heavy foot pressure the pedal travel is less than half the pedal total travel. Before adjusting the park brake, check the condition of the service brakes. Refer to Brake Drum Inspection or Brake Pad Inspection in Disc Brakes. The rear brakes must be adjusted properly before adjusting the park brake.[*]Block the front wheels.[*]Raise the rear axle and support the rear axle with safety stands.[*]Loosen the equalizer nut.[*]Fully release the park brake pedal.[*]Tighten the equalizer nut until the rear wheels will not rotate without excessive force in a forward direction.[*]Loosen the equalizer nut until there is little or no drag when the rear wheels are rotated in a forward direction.[*]Lower the vehicle.[*]Remove the blocks from the front wheels.[/blockquote]

 

Here is a picture of the equalizer:

 

Well thats the thing under the drivers seat isnt it?

 

Yes...

 

So all you do with the equilizer nut, assuming you have a working e-brake shoe in the wheel itself, is adjust tension?


I need to replace that brake shoe [&o]

 

If you have run out of adjustment on the equalizer, then one of two things could have happened... The shoes could be worn out, or the cables could be stretched. You can remove the rear rotors to check the condition of the shoes. If the shoes look to still have some brake material to them, then you could attempt to add more tension to the cables by removing the nut and then adding washers or a spacer behind it. That is until the cable end tightens down onto the equalizer body...

Those shoes are $$$.

 

Wow no kidding....$70-$85..rotors are cheaper than that.