Hey Blaze, I removed the switch and have it disected on the kitchen table, It's uglier than the one Kyle had on his write up, Ign 3 post is burned all the way across the contact. I'll pick up the switch and install it tomorrow and I'll let you know how that works out. Thanks for putting me on that link, without it I would have broken something for sure getting the switch out. Kyle did a great job there, I never even thought about the Ignition switch. Thanks so much, Spuds.

 

yeah no problem, that 3rd ignition wire could be the reason it was shorting out those coils you kept putting in. well i hope that solves the problem, let me know

 

Well, that didn't fix it. After I replaced the switch and did the passlock thing, it seemed to be OK, I cranked it several times while I was reinstalling the moldings and panels on the column and under dash. Took it for a little ride and stopped and cut it off for a few minutes and it started right up. I drove it about 5 miles and it stalled but started again, about a mile further it stalled and would not restart for a few minutes. Started again but ran for only a minute or so, did this twice. After about 15 minutes it started again but ran for only about a minute again. Each time it stalled I popped the hood and moved wires and whacked the fuse panel and ECM but I don't think this had any effect. While I was grouping around on the wires around the distributor I felt a couple of wires that were pretty tightly streched going to something directly under where the steel fuel lines come up from the transmission area to the fuel rail. I assume this is the oil presure sending unit, I've seen wiring diagrams that show a connection to the fuel pump to shut it off if you have no fuel pressure, but would this cause it not to prime the pump on start up? Each time it stalled or would not restart it was because the fuel pump shut off. Every time it stalled I cut the switch off and when I turned it back on I could not hear the pump, when I could hear it, it would start. The pump is losing power for some reason. If it would stay off until I could find what is causing it, I could Fix it, this intermitten thing is what makes so tough. If you can think of anything please let me know, thanks for your help, Spuds.

 

Sounds like the ignition switch was in need of replacement anyway.

From some of your previous posts, it sounded like the pump is not turning on properly. Is this correct? Have you tried installing a fused jumper wire in place of the relay to supply constant power to the pump? Or probed the turn on signal at the relay to see if it is being told to turn on?

 

definitely try what kyle said with that jumper wire. that will will rule out if you have a loose connection.

 

Wow, thanks for getting back so fast Guys, I have probed the turn on signal at the relay and it came on for normal 2 seconds when the switch was turned on, The other plug in points showed battery voltage, a ground and then the circut to the pump. I havent tried the fused jumper, but I'll do that in the morning and let you know what I find. Should I check the oil presure sending unit, could it shut off power to the pump? Thanks again, you guys are doing a great job, Spuds. I almost forgot your question, yes, the pump is not turning on properly.

 

The oil pressure sending unit does not play a role in fuel pump operation in the newer trucks.

Beyond testing it with a fused jumper wire to a known good power source, the next step would be to pull the plug at the pump and make sure that you are getting good power and ground to the pump.

 

Here's the latest from the Twilight Zone. I made up a fused jumper and installed it in the slots where the relay was. From the battery constant ( or hot at all times) to the fuel pump circut, the pump startrd right up, I cranked it and let it run for about an hour. While it was running I put a spade in the slot that activates the relay and attached my volt meter, it showed 13.8 volts. While the meter was hooked up I moved the wiring harness (from the VCM to the fuse/relay box) and it lost power twice for a few seconds but then I couldn't make it lose power again. I banged the VCM and the F/R box with my hand but that had no effect. I took it for a drive and it had a slight intermitten miss but that smothed out after about a mile. I shut it off and reinstalled the relay and it cranked up and ran great, no miss. I've shut it off and let it set for a couple hours and it's cranking and running fine. I've driven it 4 times this afternoon and it hasent faltered yet. So, I'm just going to drive it untill it shuts off again, I've got my jumper wire in the console so I won't get stranded. When it does it again, I'll remove the harness from the VCM to the F/R box and check it and the box for a bad connection. I appreciate your help or any advice you might have at this point. Thanks, Spuds.

 

Sounds like you have it narrowed down to a wiring issue. Finding it may prove difficult. Hopefully it doesn't bite you again, but it sounds like you'll be prepared.