Sunday, my wife was driving the Blazer and it was doing fine on the interstate at 70 mph and it just died. One short miss and about 2 seconds later it acted as though it ran out of gas (has 3/4 tank). She said it has been running great the last few days and even commented that she hope it's not the flame getting brighter before it goes out! She had it towed to her aunt's house which was nearby. Her Uncle tried it. It turned it over, and over, and over until the battery died. It would occasionally gurgle, but mostly just turn and turn. I did not get back in town until dark so I charged the battery and ...

Monday AM from a cold start, did the same thing. Did not have fuel pressure gauge with me, so sprayed in starting fluid, same thing, no start, but a few loud 'spiffs' (backfire) thru the intake. Tried this over and over to no avail. Had a small burning fire on the ~10th attempt and gave up. Not starting with starting fluid would rule out a faulty fuel pump? Yes?

Could it have jumped time? If so, how can this be checked not running?
Distributor/rotor bad? Has had recent plug and wire change. I did not have the correct socket to remove a plug to check for spark, but will do so soon along with checking fuel pressure. Pump was replaced 3 years ago.

I need to move this from her Aunt's and don't want to have to pay $100 up to move it.

Any thoughts on quick and cheap things to try? Would like to move it 15 miles back home on it's own power if possible.

THANKS!!

 

check for moisture in distributor cap

 

You need to start with basics; Fuel pressure test, and leak down test. Any check engine lights on? Etc.

 

1) fuel pump; 2) fuel filter; 3) selenoid; 4) distributor cap; 5) check wire boots; 6) MAF sensor; 6) fuses. After that I don't know. I doubt its the timing chain as that would likely freeze the engine. Hope its not the computer... Hell, I really don't know for sure to start.

 

Engine needs three things to run: fuel, air, spark. Air usually not a problem, but check for spark and fuel. Easy stuff first:
Check the coil, ignition module, distributor wires/connections are all tight.
Check for spark...needs to be a nice blue arc at the spark plug.
Check fuel pressure- rent/borrow a fuel pressure gauge, do leakdown test.

 

Thanks all for the replies.... It'll be Wednesday before I can get to look at it.

I have my fuel pressure gauge and will do the pressure/leakdown test, but wouldn't the fact that it would not start with starting fluid rule out the pump/filter/fuel delivery? Yes?
Nevertheless I will perform the measurements.

No codes at all, probably because the battery died with the hazards flashing...or could the computer be bad?? Would a dead computer not allow any running? no limp mode on this vehicle?
I have been getting P0304 (4th cylinder misfire). In response I changed all plugs and wires a month or so ago; however, this did not stop the P0304 after clearing the code. The code should have been there, so either the code erased due to low battery, or faulty computer/connection.

I purchased a $5 inline spark tester from HF and will check the ignition for spark and moisture in the cap. I hope it is something simple like a bad rotor.

Any other thoughts? I'll keep you all updated.

 

I'll lay my money on the timing chain....

 

I would think that if the timing chain jumped a tooth then the engine will still start...just not run very well.

But if the timing chain broke...then a quick check would be to take the distributor cap off, have someone turn the key to START and see if the rotor turns....if not....then you have found a problem; either the timing chain broke and the cam is not turning or hopefully it is the distributor gear is not engaged with the cam or the roll pin has fallen-out and the gear is spinning.

 

Here's the update:

I think timing chain can be ruled out....


The vehicle has sat since 12/2. I hooked the inline spark tool from HF to #2 (easy to get at). Asked Uncle to watch the light as it turned the starter...battery dead...hooked jumper cables to the Corvette.....

I then turned the switch and Uncle said "I see the light flash" which disappointed me as I was hoping for a bad rotor or something simple....but then it started!!! on gas.... it would not even start on starting fluid 12/2.
I disconnected the cables and hooked the fuel pressure gauge up...got near 60 psi; however, I am unable to do a leakdown test as the cheap HF fuel pressure gauge will not fully seal at the valve (small leak) so pressure will not hold because of that. Does the same thing on my 'Vette.

I disconnected the gauge and started the Blazer again (had to jump it again). It started and this time I noticed white smoke from the tailpipe. It may have been present the first time, I did not look that way then. I let it idle, which it did fine for about 10 minutes. The white smoke quit about 2-3 minutes during this time. I then revved it up to about 3-4 K and it started to cut out. I stopped revving and it nearly stalled at idle, but did not and continued to idle for another 2-3 minutes. I revved it again and the same thing and the MIL started to flash. I cut it off and retrieved the infamous P0300. I checked the oil and......chocolate milk....water in the oil. I checked it a few days before the breakdown and it was near low and black coffee...I intended to change it in the near future.

I restarted the Blazer (did not have to jump it this time). No white smoke. I revved it...same cutting out but no white smoke....just clear....

Turned it off and called it a day...

Here are my thoughts based upon a few forum searches regarding Vortec and water in the oil, etc...

I appreciate any contributions, clarifications and criticisms of my theory:

I understand intake manifold gasket failure is notorious on these engines...I suspect this one has failed and coolant entered the combustion chamber when my wife was driving causing engine shutdown...I was unable start the engine the next day...even with starting fluid because the plugs/combustion chamber was still wet with coolant... the engine started fine today (on gas) because it sat for several days and dried out. Coolant is still entering the chamber causing the misses at medium/high rpms...


I would like to drive the Blazer back home Saturday morning. 10 mile journey... can I do i if I baby it? All streets, no interstate....

and then change the intake manifolds.....I will first fill the radiator full with water to see if it gurgles when running to see if it is a head gasket/ head crack....

what do you think?


Thanks!

 

I've done my intake manifold gaskets and seen others that failed. In my experience, the coolant leaked to the outside of the engine, not into the cylinder or oil. Anything can happen of course, but I'd look carefully at the head gaskets. You probably don't have access to a sniffer, but try a compression test and/or get one of those block tester kits. Your #4 miss might be a clue too.

Why do the intake gaskets and put it back together only to find you need to rip it apart again?

AFA driving it... Personally, I'd get it towed. What if it dies again enroute? Find a friend with AAA if you don't have towing coverage. You could probably get away with 10 miles by changing the oil first and leaving the radiator cap loose so the cooling system doesn't pressurize, but your new oil will be ruined and you run the risk of engine damage or having to call for a tow from the road. I'd play it safe.

-peace-