+1

Shouldn't have to bypass the oil press sender. Does the pump prime when you turn the key on? That will be enough to start - only if the oil press. drops once running will it kill the pump.

I agree with pettyfog. Verify power at the plug on the GREY wire. You're going to need a helper; it will ONLY have power for 2 sec when the key is turned on. Verify continuity to ground on the BLACK wire. If your getting nothing there, move back up the chain. START WHERE THE SPLICE WAS MADE. Then: Inertia SW, Relay, Signal to turn relay ON.

How were the old and new harness connected? Crimp terminals, solder and heatshring, twisting and tape (not that anyone would do that LOL)

If you go through everything, and have power at the connector, you could very well have gotten a bad pump. WARRANTY

Aaron

 

@aneill75 No the pump does not prime. It doesn't make any noise at all. I had a friend help me today and I test the original harness (the point before the splice was made) and there was absolutely no power going to the harness.

The hold harness and new harness were twisted, soldered and heatshrinked, then electrical taped and plastic shrouded.

I went back under the hood and was messing with my fuse box (since my other friend wasn't sure if he messed up when he was testing) I tested the connection for my horn using the audible tone setting on the volt meter (the horn uses the same relay as the fuel) and bingo, works just fine. I tested the connection where the fuel relay goes in (both with key on and off) and NOTHING... I tested it the exact same way on my friend's 2001 sonoma and it tested just fine..

Perhaps the fuse box went bad? likeliness?

since I know there is no electricity from the fuse box area to the harness that connects to the fuel pump. How do I test from the fuse box forward? (aka towards battery) so that I know if my fuse box is bad.

Thanks!

p.s. It may take me longer than preferred to reply since I rely on friends helping me test. Thanks again

 

Do you have continuity from the fuse box back to the appropriate terminal on the new connector?

Maybe this schematic will help you test the fuse box. I have seen a few of them go bad due to shorts and/or misuse in the past.

 

Ran tests today, I have voltage going back to the fuel pump, but no amps. any ideas?

Also, if I were to cut the grey (power) wire on the backside of the fuse box, does it matter where I cut it? Will that affect the fuel primer connector?

 

Figured out what was wrong!!

I had 6 corroded and breaking wires. I just happened to find them when I was tracing the power wire going to the fuel pump. Rewired those last night and WALA!! it starts! To bad I hadn't found those wires sooner :/