-2002 4x4 4DR LT w/AC -

Alright, I went to change my sparkplugs over the weekend and I'm currently riding around on 5 new plugs and 1 old plug in #3.

I would like to put another request for someone to put detailed instructions on how to disconnect the streering shaft in order to change #3. I spent half an hour looking at the shaft and I couldn't figure out how "one bolt" takes it apart. There's a plastic boot on the bumper end that is bolted at a couple different spots, which bolt is it?The firewall end comes into the cab but is connected by two bolts? Several people have requested these instructions with no response yet so it would be appreciated by many. As always, pics would be nice. .

I realize that people have had other success with changing this plug with special tools, turning the shaft, etc but I just spent 2 hours trying to do it on Saturday with no luck. Was able to get the sparkplug socket(with ratcheded end) on but there is no possible way to get an universal joint orwrench on the end of it. Let me know if you have any special advice for my model('02 4x4 4dr) but I can't realy rely on anything else.

Thanks!

 

Not to try to put you off, Charles, but have you done a 'search' on the forum? There have been many discussions on this spark plug.

 

Not to put you off rriddle3, but please read questions and not just the message titlebefore replying.As I said: I did search and what I asked isn't there. Prove me wrong....please!

Again, I would like to request either:
a.) 2002 4x4 4dr LT #3 sparkplug removal techniques or
b.) Steering columndisconnectingtechniques, for purposes of getting to #3 SP

Thanks!

 

I know that a.) has been answered as I have written it out several times. But for sake of repetition, here goes again.

I was able to use a regular deep well socket and a whobble extension. No special tools unless you consider the whobble extension to be a special tool, but once you have one in your tool box, it'll get used more than your regular extensions.

The full disconnecting isn't necessary in my opinion. The cover around the rag joint can be a real pain to get off and even more difficult to get back on. The best way that I have found (if a regular deep socket and whobble extension doesn't work for you) is to cut the orange rubber boot that is on the steering shaft. Cut it just in the location where you need to gain clearance and only enough to get said clearance. That extra 1/8" or so of room makes a world of difference.

And as always with anything here, feel free to be the pioneer and post the information that you find lacking by actually working through it yourself. Many people don't give themselves enough credit for their problem solving prowess.

 

No, youdetailed techniquestfora'00 Bravada. The only input you can find regarding an '02 4x4 is, ironically,the guyyou had previously responded tofor this.Unfortunately,that guynever repliedto say ifyour adviceworked. If I hear nothing I will buywobble extensions but I have the same doubts as he did: the steering shaft& heat shieldsaretoo congested.I don't know if the layout in the engine is the same in an '00 bravada and an '02 blazer but it doesn't sound likeyou do either.

The #3 sparkplug sucks monkeyballs, two-times. Until there is a detailed survey on every year, model and make and what technique works the best, it will be incomplete. Better to ask another question than stoop to paying ashop $150 to change one GD, sparkplug.

I your help but I'm going to keep looking.And although your experience is not the same model, descriptions of disconnecting the steering column on an '00(4x4?) Bravadd would help as there are none on here for any model. Thanks!

 

Yup I have no clue if they are the same... [&o] Sometimes I wonder why I even bother with it so painfully obvious that I know so little...[sm=smiley19.gif] [sm=headbang.gif]

Since you want to do things the hard way and don't want to listen to experience, here is the information you requested.

And maybe, just maybe the reason why the guy I responded to didn't respond back is because what I recommended worked and he's off enjoying himself... Not everyone responds back. Such is life.

And just an FYI, an s-series is an s-series. Blazer, Jimmy, & Bravada from '96 on are identical in this regard, hence why I never mentioned a difference. But thanks for insinuating that I don't have a clue.

Good luck and oh yeah... No thanks necessary

*Moving to 2nd Gen Tech* - Cause that is what an '02 is...

 

I have a 2004 blazer 4x4 and all I did was jack the truck up, took the front tire off for much easier access, I had a spark plug socket from autozone slid right on the #3 plug no prob, then I just took a regular open ended wrench and able to get it off and the new one on in less than 5 min, to me getting the thing jacked up and the tire off is worse than the plug. Good luck

 

Well you seem to be very lucky. It took me about 2 hours to take #3 plug out and about 45 mins to get it in to what I have figured out is tightened enough.

 

Ok, not wanting to ruffle any feathers just my 2cents worth. I have found the easiest way is as follows.
1) SAFETY FIRST
2) locate the rubber sleave on your steering shaft (orange in color, at least on mine) slide it toward the fire wall. This may take some effort if it's never been done before.
3) remove the plastic cover from the shaft that covers the steering box to shaft coupler (rag joint) Note: if you are going to unbolt the shaft from steering box you'll probibly have to do this anyway. (I personally have never had to disconnect the shaft) I removed the cover to gain more room to slide the rubber sleave back down toward the gearbox.( only because I coundn't get it to slide far enough toward the firewall to gain enough clearance) if your sleave will go far enough toward the firewall you can skip this step.
4) turn the steering wheel until the flat portion of the steering shaft is facing up .
5) remove the key from the ignition and put it in your pocket(step 1)
6) set the parking brake, block the wheels, and place transmission in park. (Auto trans )(remember step 1)
7) jack up the truck,and use a jackstand!
8)remove the tire/wheel assembly
9)tuck the dust/mud flap that is attached to the inner fender panel up out of the way.
10) remove the spark plug boot from the spark plug by plulling on the boot only not the wire.(might help to twist on the boot first to break it loose.)
11) take a 5/8 deepwell socket and place it on the spark plug, THEN attach an exention to it ( the longer the better)
12) break the plug loose but don't remove it all the way.(when you can turn it by handthats enough)
13) remove the extention and then the socket from the spark plug. (easier to manuver around the shaft that way.
14) now take a piece of 5/16 rubber hose about 12in long and push one end over the end of the spark plug.
15) now turn until the plug comes out.
16) reassembly is reversed.

It works every time!.......

Just so you know I'm not trying to offend just help!

GOOD LUCK!

 

No offense taken. You have added some very good points. I simply started out by stating what many others, myself included, have found works for removing the sometimes problematic #3 plug. Through the years I have found it to be much more cost effective to buy the more specialized tools than to jerry rig something that I already have in my garage to work. The time required to mess around costs me more than the tools ever did and guess what, these tools are still in my tool box waiting to be used the next time I even think that they may help get a job done easier/faster. I guess it all depends on how you value your time.

Not that I would consider a set of wobble extensions a specialized tool and for $19 for a 6" SK wobble extension from Sears, it isn't a wallet buster. I have the 10 peice Craftsman wobble set ($70 now, but I think I picked it up on sale for $55) that I use more than regular extensions.