Well found the codes in the diy section....Lots of reading...to late at night. I'll try again tommarow.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-29572/
https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-26277/

 

How do the connector terminals look both at the TCCM & the encoder motor? The TCCM is responsible for sending the LO range signal to the PCM. If the wiring is burnt or corroded (common problem), it may be contributing to your problem. Sometimes just the removal and reconnection of the connectors does the trick, especially if the TCCM is swapped, but if the terminals in the connector are corroded badly enough, they still won't make contact.

 

OK so I pulled the tccm and checked the connections. They were a little coroded but not to bad. I cleaned them with a little pick and brush and brake clean.
Reinstalled it and fired it up.
The tccm clicked a few times, The shift selector swich lit up (all buttons) for a couple seconds then they all shut off exept the 4lo light. Then a few seconds later the 4lo light went out too. Swich is unresponsive and service 4x4 dummy light is still on.

Seems like the tccm is working and the problem is further down the line. Anyway to test and encoder motor? On it it said not to turn it on unhooked up
Thinking maybe my used encoder might be garbage???

 

That isn't a dummy light unless you are ignoring it and referring to yourself. Get the codes read and see where that leads you.

 

co323-transfercase lock circuit low
co387-unable to complete shift.

Heres the codes it reads...

 

If the encoder won't unlock, it doesn't have a prayer of completing a shift. I would check the wiring from the TCCM to the encoder with a multimeter to make sure that there isn't excessive resistance on any of them (wiring info can be found in the tech article section) and check the resistance on the lock circuit in the encoder motor. It should show a relatively low resistance (18-25 ohms if I remember correctly). The lock control is powered by the ATC fuse on one side (orange wire should have +12V) and is provided ground through the TCCM itself (tan wire).

 

I would be leaning towards your TCCM or switch because you have no lights. The new one available is updated and can be used in place of several part numbers. My TCCM fried itself with less than 85,000 miles on the clock. Unless the used one you put in was known to work fine you could still have the same issue.