5 speed into auto
#2
yes, where there is a will and money where is a way. But it wont just be bolt on and go. You need a clutch pedal, master cyl added on. The manual trans may be shorter or smaller and may warrent driveshaft work. Cut a nuce hole in your floorboard for a shifter, the pcm will need reprogrammed too. Or get a 5 speed one
#3
it is sort of bolt on...trans lengths are the same, there are write ups on how to get the pedal and master cyl installed (not that i've found here, but they'll be on other s10 sites)
pcm can be 'fooled' into thinking the auto is still there by patching in some relays into where the range switch connects, but that only works for the rev limiter reverse lights and starter lockout. you'll get check engine codes related to the apparently 'failed' solenoids in the missing auto trans still. or do it proper with a pcm re-program...
planning to put a manual in my '01 4 door sometime this summer, if i can get my camera to co-operate i'll do a write up
pcm can be 'fooled' into thinking the auto is still there by patching in some relays into where the range switch connects, but that only works for the rev limiter reverse lights and starter lockout. you'll get check engine codes related to the apparently 'failed' solenoids in the missing auto trans still. or do it proper with a pcm re-program...
planning to put a manual in my '01 4 door sometime this summer, if i can get my camera to co-operate i'll do a write up
#4
Had a request about the wiring details on a manual swap so I figured I'd post it up here in case anyone else is interested. I can get long winded in my efforts to be clear so bear with me...
To get basic starting and reverse lights you need to make use of the 7 pin connector on the PNP/Range module bolted to the gear select input shaft on the LH side of the transmission.
To get the connector off the module, warm it with a heat gun or hairdryer - they use a wax-like glue/sealer to keep them together.
Very quickly:
A (Not Used)
B (LT GRN) Transmission Mounted Neutral Safety Switch Output
C (PNK) Fuse Output - Ignition 1
D (BLK/WHT) Ground
E (PPL)Fuse Output - Crank
F (GRY)Backup Lamp Feed - "Monitored" (whatever that means)
G (PPL/WHT) Starter Relay Feed - Coil
Important ones for starting are 'E' and 'G' - when the key is turned to 'start' or 'crank', 12V is supplied to 'E' - you need to take that and run it through your clutch switch so that the 12V comes back out with the clutch pressed in. Then take that 12V and feed it back into 'G' - this will enable the starter relay.
To get reverse lights, take the 12V power from 'C', run it through the reverse switch in your manual transmission and then back into 'F' - lights should come on when the trans is put in reverse.
Telling the computer you're in drive is a little more interesting. Thats where the second 4 pin connector comes in.
This is a 'digital' connection of sorts and is somewhat cryptically labelled as follows:
A (BLK/WHT) Transmission Position Switch - Bit 1
B (GRY) Transmission Position Switch - Bit 3
C (WHT) Transmission Position Switch - Parity Bit
D (YEL) Transmission Position Switch - Bit 2
These pins are grounded by the PNP/Range module depending on what gear has been selected.
Simple answer to get drive is to ground pins B and D - most easily done by connecting both to pin D of the 7 pin connector above.
To get all(most) positions, a fancy arrangement of relays (or an arduino) would have to be set up to ground the pins based on this table:
Range Pin A Pin D Pin B Pin C
Park GND N/C N/C GND
Reverse GND GND N/C N/C
Neutral N/C GND N/C GND
Drive N/C GND GND N/C
D3 GND GND GND GND
D2 GND N/C GND N/C
D1 N/C N/C GND GND
(Pins are labelled A,D,B,C because i translated from the FSM logic table out to the wires)
Not impossible but if someone REALLY wanted to do this, PM me and I'll have a go at the logic to get Reverse, Neutral, and Drive inputs to PCM
I also did once see a setup to make the PCM think an auto was still attached and not throw codes, i think it was on one of the fiero forums - IIRC it mostly involved putting incandescent turn signal/marker lights on the wires that would control the solenoids in the transmission.
The above information was mined out of a FSM for a 2000 Blazer/Jimmy/Etc - it was in my notes for what I'm going to use on my (long coming) swap - Double checked my notes back to the FSM tonight to verify details but do be aware this is technically theory for me right now. Post up results if you try it!
To get basic starting and reverse lights you need to make use of the 7 pin connector on the PNP/Range module bolted to the gear select input shaft on the LH side of the transmission.
To get the connector off the module, warm it with a heat gun or hairdryer - they use a wax-like glue/sealer to keep them together.
Very quickly:
A (Not Used)
B (LT GRN) Transmission Mounted Neutral Safety Switch Output
C (PNK) Fuse Output - Ignition 1
D (BLK/WHT) Ground
E (PPL)Fuse Output - Crank
F (GRY)Backup Lamp Feed - "Monitored" (whatever that means)
G (PPL/WHT) Starter Relay Feed - Coil
Important ones for starting are 'E' and 'G' - when the key is turned to 'start' or 'crank', 12V is supplied to 'E' - you need to take that and run it through your clutch switch so that the 12V comes back out with the clutch pressed in. Then take that 12V and feed it back into 'G' - this will enable the starter relay.
To get reverse lights, take the 12V power from 'C', run it through the reverse switch in your manual transmission and then back into 'F' - lights should come on when the trans is put in reverse.
Telling the computer you're in drive is a little more interesting. Thats where the second 4 pin connector comes in.
This is a 'digital' connection of sorts and is somewhat cryptically labelled as follows:
A (BLK/WHT) Transmission Position Switch - Bit 1
B (GRY) Transmission Position Switch - Bit 3
C (WHT) Transmission Position Switch - Parity Bit
D (YEL) Transmission Position Switch - Bit 2
These pins are grounded by the PNP/Range module depending on what gear has been selected.
Simple answer to get drive is to ground pins B and D - most easily done by connecting both to pin D of the 7 pin connector above.
To get all(most) positions, a fancy arrangement of relays (or an arduino) would have to be set up to ground the pins based on this table:
Range Pin A Pin D Pin B Pin C
Park GND N/C N/C GND
Reverse GND GND N/C N/C
Neutral N/C GND N/C GND
Drive N/C GND GND N/C
D3 GND GND GND GND
D2 GND N/C GND N/C
D1 N/C N/C GND GND
(Pins are labelled A,D,B,C because i translated from the FSM logic table out to the wires)
Not impossible but if someone REALLY wanted to do this, PM me and I'll have a go at the logic to get Reverse, Neutral, and Drive inputs to PCM
I also did once see a setup to make the PCM think an auto was still attached and not throw codes, i think it was on one of the fiero forums - IIRC it mostly involved putting incandescent turn signal/marker lights on the wires that would control the solenoids in the transmission.
The above information was mined out of a FSM for a 2000 Blazer/Jimmy/Etc - it was in my notes for what I'm going to use on my (long coming) swap - Double checked my notes back to the FSM tonight to verify details but do be aware this is technically theory for me right now. Post up results if you try it!
Last edited by roypai; 08-15-2018 at 08:30 PM.
#5
I put a 4-speed in my 2000 and it really wasn't that bad of a job at all. Yours would be even easier, since you can use all factory parts. The only part that was a little tricky was cutting the hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. The pedal itself literally snaps into place.
I had my PCM reprogrammed for a manual, so I didn't have to deal with much of the wiring, just the reverse light switch and the VSS. Mine will start without stepping on the clutch (the way I like it), so I didn't do anything with the clutch switch.
I had my PCM reprogrammed for a manual, so I didn't have to deal with much of the wiring, just the reverse light switch and the VSS. Mine will start without stepping on the clutch (the way I like it), so I didn't do anything with the clutch switch.
#6
93 full size question dont judge im new
i have a 93 k1500 sport siting on 6 inch lift and 35s needles to say 4l60e slips in 3to4 i have a new rebuilt 5 speed and transfer. what will the computer do when i disconect the trans wiring i dont care about the speedo i just want to get the 5 speed in. any help on this? please ive looked arround but only found stuff for newer blazers will the motor run like normal or will it do something stupid
#7
i have a 93 k1500 sport siting on 6 inch lift and 35s needles to say 4l60e slips in 3to4 i have a new rebuilt 5 speed and transfer. what will the computer do when i disconect the trans wiring i dont care about the speedo i just want to get the 5 speed in. any help on this? please ive looked arround but only found stuff for newer blazers will the motor run like normal or will it do something stupid
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