95 blazer 4wd with 4.3 v-6 vin code W. i have the horizontal rotor cap and ive got a pcm on top of my radiator resivor. i belive its called pcm correct me if im wrong. my blazer is hard to start and by that i mean it sounds like the battery is almost dead then it starts cranking. so it slow cranks first which makes me think the timing is off or maybe my gears are worn out? blazer has 275,458 miles. about 2 months ago my ses light came on and i had to replace the module that is located under the cap and button on the rotor not sure of its name sorry. but when i changed that and reset my codes the blazer would start right up for about 2 days then back to same thing but im not getting the code for it no more either? i also did a fuel pressure test and ended up replacing the spider injector and nut kit since i had washing and standing fuel inside. i did another test and watched for any leaks and its good to go. i even went out and checked again and there is no washing or gas in there. but yet the blazer still misses out when driving down the road? do u think maybe my gears are worn out on distributor? also i have still not been able to find the tan wire that u dissconect? ive looked all around and under glove box and looked outside. does my model even have one? please any help would be great. Thanks

also i meant to mention that i did a full tune up when i replaced the spider too. when i put on my new cap and rotor i did notice that there is play up and down and left to right is that normal?

im wondering if i should go ahead and pull the distributor and check gear or is their some other things i can check? anyone got any advice for removing the distributor? it seems to be in a tight spot.

also does anyone know if my blazer even has the tan wire that u dissconect for the timming? ive looked around in the common spots and not seeing it?

 

anyone?

please anyone got any advice? thanks

 

The only way I know to check the timing on these trucks is by hooking it up to a scan tool. Not real familiar with the 95 but it sounds like its OBDII. As far as distributor check there are awesome threads and how-tos in this forum, use the search function to find them. Good luck.

 

yes ive tried searching but it comes up with like 20 pages of stuff and they are all different? and none of it has told me for sure if my model has the tan wire? would love to get some more info on my model. thanks also anyone know what size wrench u need for the bolt on distributor? and do i need to remove cap just to loosen bolt?

ok i guess first i need to know which system i even have? here is a link to pics of my computer. is my blazer obd1, obd1.5, or obd2? blazer
also i removed kick panel and looked under glove box and im not seeing a tan wire with connector anywhere? does mine even have one? and as i said before i had changed the pick-up coil once and the blazer would start right up for a couple days then back to missing and hard starts. the first time when i had to change the pick-up coil the blazer had real bad exhaust fumes and it threw the code for my pick-up coil. now i dont have the fumes but its back to the hard sluggish start? is this symptems of a pick -up coil going bad again? was i supposed to use some type of heat grease on it before installing or something? thanks!!

anyone? thanks

 

Yours looks to be OBD2...if those are actual pictures of where your computer is located....the one under the hood is for the drive train....the other inside on the passenger kick panel is for the SRS (air bag) system. You should be able to use an OBD2 scan tool.

 

yes those are my pictures. so does my model have the tan wire?

please im desperate here. this is our only ride right now and i need it to be good to go for the family. thanks

anyone please?

 

are u supposed to use a grease when installing the new pick-up coil?

 

Pickup coil? If you have the horizontal terminals on the distributor cap, there isn't a pickup coil, just a CMP sensor. Dielectric grease is required on the back of the ICM (ignition control module) which bolts to the same bracket as the primary ignition coil (what the coil wire from the distributor hooks to).

If you have the horizontal terminals on the distributor cap, you have the EDI distributor which requires a specific procedure for setting the timing, including the need for a scan tool to set CMP retard to 0 degrees. Check out this thread:
EDI Engine Timing

If the battery has a difficult time of turning over the engine, you may want to have the battery tested. Also, test the resistance on the main positive cable down to the starter as well as see if you can stretch it. If the resistance is high and/or you can stretch it, the fusible link in the cable is damaged and the cable needs to be replaced.

If both the cable and the battery check out ok, there could be a problem with the starter. This too can be bench tested.

One all too common problem with all of the CPI engines is a fuel leak internal to the intake plenum. A fuel pressure & leak down test will tell you if you have a problem in that regard. Another somewhat common problem is a loose connector on the CPI injector itself. This connector is inside the intake plenum and the wires (2) exit to the driver side of the throttle body down low on the lower intake manifold. Some have had luck pulling on them gently which has resulted in a short period of proper operation.

 

thank u. is their a way to test the icm. and the cmp whats that stand for? i did notice on my icm that their is some white grease in their but it is old. also if rain water ever hit the icm would it cause these problems? i did the fuel test and itsw good and holds. i have a hood scoop that is open in front and rear and im sure that some rain has probly hit it. ive looked at every connections i could see and no of it seems corroded or damaged.

oh and one more thing. how come when i changed the cmp the first time my truck would start right up and it ran great? it makes me think this new cmp is going bad maybe? is their a way to check it or i dont know??

 

The CMP sensor is the camshaft position sensor. The CMP sensor is just a hall effect sensor which senses the open and closed sections of the reluctor ring which is what the distributor rotor bolts to. When the closed section of the reluctor ring passes through the CMP sensor, a voltage is induced in the sensor which is sensed by the PCM.

Water should not influence the operation of the ICM. The ICM should have good thermal paste between it and the bracket it bolts to, ensuring good thermal transfer since the bracket is it's heat-sink.

Most autoparts stores used to have the equipment to test the ICM & coil, but testing anything has fallen from their list of best interests and most no longer claim to be able to test them. These items really need to be energized and stressed similar to what they experience during operation in order to expose the faults. They rarely test bad in a cold test.

BTW, please edit your post rather than post consecutively. Rules are rules.