95 starts on second or third try consistently
#1
95 starts on second or third try consistently
I'm getting to the point where I'm stumped. Consistently whether the engine is hot or cold it will not start on the first try but never fail on the second or third try it will always start.
I have done fuel pressure tests with the following results.
key on: 60 PSI
once the fuel pump turns off: 55 PSI
After sitting for 10 minutes: 55 PSI
Every attempt to crank the engine it is at 60 PSI.
I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, cap and rotor, ICM, cleaned the EGR valve, and cleaned the IAC valve. Also for checked for any codes and there were none.
After reading many posts at this point I am unsure what to test next or might otherwise be causing it to not start on the first try.
I have done fuel pressure tests with the following results.
key on: 60 PSI
once the fuel pump turns off: 55 PSI
After sitting for 10 minutes: 55 PSI
Every attempt to crank the engine it is at 60 PSI.
I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, cap and rotor, ICM, cleaned the EGR valve, and cleaned the IAC valve. Also for checked for any codes and there were none.
After reading many posts at this point I am unsure what to test next or might otherwise be causing it to not start on the first try.
#2
1995 could have any one of 3 different computer control systems, (one of the reasons Olds did not produce the Bravada in 1995). Diagnosis procedures are different for each system. Under the dash, drivers side, which connector do you have? If you have the OBDII style connector, is the PCM mounted on top of the coolant reservoir above the passenger front wheel?
#3
I have a ODBII style connector and the PCM is located above the wheel on the passenger side.
One other thought I have which I don't even know if its possible but if a weak battery could cause the problems I'm continuing to see. If I let it sit with a trickle charger on the battery until it is charged it will start on the first try.
One other thought I have which I don't even know if its possible but if a weak battery could cause the problems I'm continuing to see. If I let it sit with a trickle charger on the battery until it is charged it will start on the first try.
#4
The 60psi you're getting is at the bottom of the allowable spec for fuel pressure, (60psi to 66psi). Low battery voltage can definitely cause low fuel pressure on start up. Try testing fuel pressure after leaving the charger on it all night. Connect the tester and just turn the ignition to the ON position, do not start the engine, and see what the pressure is when the pump is running.
#5
I will measure the fuel pressure after it is charged up. I took a quick video just of it not starting.
http://youtu.be/FgsqmO-j9Ao
http://youtu.be/FgsqmO-j9Ao
#6
The starter drive is not staying engaged with the flexplate. You can get just the drive unit, and they're usually around $30, but it requires disassembly of the starter to replace it. Most of the time you're better off replacing the whole starter: when the drive goes south, there are other parts that are ready to go also
#7
its the starter. Were you turning off the blazer to restart or was it stalling?
#8
Another of the many cases where a video is worth a thousand words.
We could have chased it forever ,or a couple days anyway, from wrong assumptions.
Note: the only thing on the topside of the engine that can cause that is ignition problems where timing is bad or spark jumps and kicks engine back.
- easy to find if that's so, disable spark or fuel delivery.
Even so there is a problem with the starter 'bendix'.
First thought came to mind for me was WTF!
But it's a different time and place. Where an individual can live to adulthood never having encountered that which was a very common problem fifty years ago.
That just goes to support my contention from 55 years of DIY car fixing that cars arent what they used to be.. they are made hella BETTER!!!
OTOH: If you're gonna buy and work on a Blazer -or any older car- you really oughta sign up for one semester night classes in automotive shop.
We could have chased it forever ,or a couple days anyway, from wrong assumptions.
Note: the only thing on the topside of the engine that can cause that is ignition problems where timing is bad or spark jumps and kicks engine back.
- easy to find if that's so, disable spark or fuel delivery.
Even so there is a problem with the starter 'bendix'.
First thought came to mind for me was WTF!
But it's a different time and place. Where an individual can live to adulthood never having encountered that which was a very common problem fifty years ago.
That just goes to support my contention from 55 years of DIY car fixing that cars arent what they used to be.. they are made hella BETTER!!!
OTOH: If you're gonna buy and work on a Blazer -or any older car- you really oughta sign up for one semester night classes in automotive shop.
Last edited by pettyfog; 02-18-2012 at 10:36 AM.
#9
That's the type of problem where ya really gotta be there to diagnose it. Now, with the capability to post videos, you can "virtually" be there.
#10
Victory!
Thanks for the quick response and the help. I feel like I should have figured that out on my own but you now I know. In terms of a bad starter I was expecting total failure instead of an intermittent condition.
Talk about a incredibly frustrating task though. After 5 hours I finally got the old starter out and the new one in. Finally ended up having to loosen the bolt on the engine mount to get the old one out. Starts up every time now like it should. :-)
One other thing I learned through this process is not to use a duralast distributor cap and rotor. After I replaced the one I had on my blazer it no longer stumbled and ran rough.
To answer chris015's question, I was turn turning it off and then starting it again in the video.
Talk about a incredibly frustrating task though. After 5 hours I finally got the old starter out and the new one in. Finally ended up having to loosen the bolt on the engine mount to get the old one out. Starts up every time now like it should. :-)
One other thing I learned through this process is not to use a duralast distributor cap and rotor. After I replaced the one I had on my blazer it no longer stumbled and ran rough.
To answer chris015's question, I was turn turning it off and then starting it again in the video.