97 Blazer rear differential/drive shaft connectioon seal replacement
#1
97 Blazer rear differential/drive shaft connectioon seal replacement
I have to replace the seal at the rear differential/drive shaft connection. Couldn't find any mention of it in my shop manual. Is this a big job ?
Danyboy
Danyboy
#2
I think you are talking about the pinion seal. The seal around the yoke that the drivshaft connects to. Correct?
If so it is not a hard job but you will need a 1 1/4'' socket and possibly and impact gun (air or electric) to get the nut off the yoke, then a 2 or 3 jaw puller to get the yoke off.
If you have these items jack up your Blazer. You will want the rear tires immobilized and slightly lower than the front so you don't lose all the gear oil when the yoke comes out. I put the front on jackstands and the rear I stacked up layers of 2x6 under the tires to give me enough room to slide under the truck. Then you just mark the pinion shaft the nut and the yoke with a center punch, after you have unbolted the driveshaft and tied it up out of the way, and count the threads showing on the pinion shaft past the nut. Remove the nut, use the puller to remove the yoke and remove the old seal. Be careful not to score anything up. I would recomend the GM seal to replace it with use a thin coat of silicone around the outside edge for a good seal and a thin coat of grease on the rubber so you don't tear it putting the yoke back in. Put the yoke in and put blue thread locker on the threads to make sure the nut stays in place put the washer and nut on. Crank the nut down carefully until all your marks line up and the exact same number or threads are showing as before. I had to use a lot of force to do this (a 1/2'' drive strongbar). Bolt up your drive shaft again (I used blue thread locker here too). I think the torque on the driveshaft bolts was 35 foot pounds but someone here can confirm that.
If so it is not a hard job but you will need a 1 1/4'' socket and possibly and impact gun (air or electric) to get the nut off the yoke, then a 2 or 3 jaw puller to get the yoke off.
If you have these items jack up your Blazer. You will want the rear tires immobilized and slightly lower than the front so you don't lose all the gear oil when the yoke comes out. I put the front on jackstands and the rear I stacked up layers of 2x6 under the tires to give me enough room to slide under the truck. Then you just mark the pinion shaft the nut and the yoke with a center punch, after you have unbolted the driveshaft and tied it up out of the way, and count the threads showing on the pinion shaft past the nut. Remove the nut, use the puller to remove the yoke and remove the old seal. Be careful not to score anything up. I would recomend the GM seal to replace it with use a thin coat of silicone around the outside edge for a good seal and a thin coat of grease on the rubber so you don't tear it putting the yoke back in. Put the yoke in and put blue thread locker on the threads to make sure the nut stays in place put the washer and nut on. Crank the nut down carefully until all your marks line up and the exact same number or threads are showing as before. I had to use a lot of force to do this (a 1/2'' drive strongbar). Bolt up your drive shaft again (I used blue thread locker here too). I think the torque on the driveshaft bolts was 35 foot pounds but someone here can confirm that.
Last edited by grizzstang; 12-10-2010 at 03:39 PM.
#3
97 Blazer pinion seal
Grizzstang,
Great info, appreciate the help very much.
Thank You and Happy Holidays,
Danyboy
Great info, appreciate the help very much.
Thank You and Happy Holidays,
Danyboy
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