First start of the day is fine. I'll drive somewhere, turn it off, do my stuff, try to start it again not even a click from my starter, no crank, just the usual fuel pump 2 second noise. I'll wait till it cools off (couple days ago, temp went up to 85F outside; had to wait about 45 minutes). Start it again and she goes.
Electrical car shop checked ignition switch and should be ok. He told me to check my starter. I took it off, got it rebuilt and they changed starter coil. Problem came back.
Haynes manual says I should have a CMFI (according to VIN 'W') so an EDI ignition system. The ignition coil doesn't look like the book. Here is a picture:
http://s454.photobucket.com/albums/q...azerphoto1.jpg
It has a 3 wire harness on the left side and a 4 wire one on the right and the main coil high tension wire. How am I supposed to test the voltage coming to it first, its ground and the coil itself ? (Haynes diagram doen't match mine and it has 2-4 wire harneses).
Thank you,
Dan Leonard

 

Saw an expecienced mechanic who found the problem: Park/neutral electrical harness connection would loose contact when trying to restart with warm engine. Joint was loosing contact with heat. Mechanic cleaned it all up with electrical cleaner and 're-crimped' the joint. I was there the whole time and saw him do it.
Thanks for the help.
Danyboy

 

Well that would do it! Thanks for the follow up!

 

Was it a full moon.. (or, too much rain in NE..)

History, '97 Blazer with 93K showing, purchased last November for a winter car and has been fine. Decided to drive it last night as its been sitting unused for about 1.5 months, starts up fine, drove the 10 miles to the hockey rink fine and when I went to leave 2 hours later would not start (engine not turning over) tried jumping even though I knew it would not work and it did not. When I turn on the key I hear the fuel pump and when I turn the key to the start position I can here one of the relays on the firewall (there are three) click. I tried swapping relays and it still acted the same. Could this be the same thing, the Park/neutral electrical harness connection... Could it be a wet connection... Could it be my luck has run out.. Good thing I recently signed up for the AMA (American Motorcyclist Association) roadside assistance (covers cars too). I'll get it towed home tonight. I might look at the Park/Neutral harness connection, where is the connection located?? I actually was thinking it was something like a neutral switch not working correctly.

Any help and pointers would be greatly appreciated..
(also replacing waterpump on my HD1500, what a pain to get the fan off, have to see if I can get the holding tool for the pulley..)

Thanks
Royce in NH

 

sounds somewhat like the problem im having.i have a 96 blazer 2wd.it only only happens once in a while.it starts up fine but then i leave it for maybe a hour and you turn the key and all you hear is the fuel pump,then a click from the relays.you turn the key all the way to try to start you hear the starter click.but then sometimes it doesnt even do that.any ideas???

 

Park/Neutral switch is located over the tranny, not too far from underneath the shift lever. My problem started again after recrimping this park/neutral switch harness but this time I took it to a shop which sells remote starters and got this system checked. Turned out faulty and got it replaced. Happenned again occasionnally, the specialist bypassed the kill switch and the problem never re-occurred. He said if the problem didn't come back, some kill-switch relay (located in the steering column) would have to be changed. Did so and so far so good.
I think the fact that some blazers won't even turn after being parked for a while when hot has something to do with this park/neutral switch cause it is not far from the tranny and might get hot . Just my 2 cent.,
Danyboy

 

The whole intermitent start problem happens again, once in a while, once too many ! Usually happens after driving for a while when attempting to re-start it. No crank, just the 2 seconds fuel pump noise, sometimes a click from the starter, sometimes a grinding crank without the start.
Removed starter again, tok it in the rebuild shop and ask them to check again, everything ok.
Any hint anyone ?
Danyboy

 

Going back at it again, are you sure that your battery cables are clean and tight? If your battery is an AC Delco, some of them have problems with the positive post corroding inside the battery which can cause similar symptoms.

 

If it's only doing it when the engine is hot, I would suspect the ignition control module (ICM) is bad.

 

"Electrical car shop checked ignition switch and should be ok. " I wouldn't trust this diagnosis. When my ignition switch went bad the first attempt of the day always succeeded, it never failed to start in my driveway. Once I had driven somewhere and stopped it would fail to re-start. If I waited for the "engine" to cool down it would re-start. Remember that with all the current flowing through the ignition switch it get's warm too and the brass pieces and plastic can warp and move. You may think that you're letting your engine cool down when it's the contacts in your ignition switch that are cooling off and warping back into place. Before you go buying any parts that may get expensive I'd put a new ignition switch in it, if you haven't already done this then it's due to be replaced anyway and it may solve your problem. JayArr