The drivers power window quit working after hearing a few clicks when I tried to roll it down. I got it 1/2 half way down then it was stuck. The switch works, because I got +12 & -12 volts at the motor.

So, I thought to just change the motor.

I drilled a 1/4 hole and put a bolt/nut thru the arms. Removed the motor rivets (drilled out), and plugged the loose motor back in. Yep, it works in 1 direction, but hangs up in the other.... bad motor.

I asked a S-10/Blazer buddy for advise and this is the tips he gave me.

Remove the door panel, and check for broken pieces in the door (I already had it apart)

He changes the regulator/motor at the same time (easiest) usually using junk yard parts. And he happened to have a 99 Blazer door he had taken lock parts off. So, I went down there and watched him pull the reg/motor in 5 minutes.

1st he removed the 2 10 mm bolts holding the front vertical track (closest to the hinges). He pulled out the rubber seal and removed the front metal track.

This allows the glass to move forward enough to come off the rear roller, then he tipped the glass ~45 degrees and pulled up off the front roller. He completely removed the glass out from the door.

Then grind off the rivets holding the regulator to the door.

To install make sure the new (used) reg/motor is about 1/2 way up so you can see both rollers from the inside. This helps guide the glass back on. You can use 12v battery to move up/down on the motor terminals.

Use 1/4-20 bolts/nuts to hold the regulator. With a vice-grip on the threads, you can hold the bolt and tighten the nut. Grind off the exposed threads after it's tightened.

When you reinstall, make sure you catch the front roller, at the 45 degree angle, then rotate the glass back and slide the glass horizontally enough to catch the rear roller.

Take a little of wiggle to get the glass in the back slide. Then push the rubber seal back into the window, and reattach the front metal rail. I moved the window a bit up/down to confirm the slides before tightening bolts.

I think I had it done in 25 minutes. But would have struggled if he had not covered the basics.

I'll replace the motor on my original regulator if I can find the right 1/4 inch rivets so I can have a spare. Who knows how long the junkyard part will run.


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Before you go through all that trouble make sure the existing motor is well grounded because the rivets come loose (especially if you live on a dirt road or you keep the button held down after the window is up or down and it puts wear and tear on the rivets and you loose your ground for the motor.
I just about replaced a motor when the problem was a bad ground connection because the rivets were wore out.

 

The rivets were solid, and by checking the motor once it was removed, the motor would hang up on the downward rotation uness i nudged the gear.

 

whats up guys,,so what if the motor runs fine but the window doesn't move. i can pull it up and down so im thinking that there is some kind of clip or something. i tried to take the panel off but its giving me some problems and i couldnt see the inside. do you know how the window attaches?

 

The gears in the motor can strip out or break... sounds like that's what you have since you can pull the glass up/down. My motor was intermittent..

Pop the door panel and make sure it's in the track... otherwise it's easy to remove the motor/regulator as 1 unit. Put the glass 1/2 way down, then remove the 10 mm bolts that hold the front and rear sliders. These run vertically on the front and rear of the door. After those are out, you can tilt the glass at a 45 degree angle and pull it out.

Dril out the rivets holding the regulator assembly. It might work without a load outside the door, so a new motor might be the way to go.

 

Going through the numerous posts about windows here this is the first time I saw someone mention loose rivets. My problem is not a ground (I don't think).

Previously to tonight, when I would put the window up, after about halfway it would make a noise like something was popping. Tonight it made the sound when it was up near the top. THen the window would stop working until I whacked the door panel. I pulled the door panel and saw that the window motor was twisting at a certain point. This was obvious by the loose bottom rivet and by the space between the bottom of the motor and the door.

The window will work but only for a few cycles then slow down to stop. Is something out of alignment or is this just a case of a bad motor?

 

My '99 Blazer was crunched in the side by another car backing. Shop replaced door but window fell off track within weeks.

Return to body shop, dude there said "minor adjustment". Next week off track again, but able to physically wrest it back on top of rollers, but has ever since been so sensitive.

Today I took off door panel to learn none of three rollers was engaged in the channels they are meant for.

Am convinced that rollers were never, after replacement, properly engaged, ergo their sensitivity.

Question: I was able only to engage the forward roller onto the windo trach channel. There is also a rear channel engagement as well as a "third arm" track, neither of which I can engage. Is there a sequence for this kind of engagement?