im trying to troubleshoot a hard start problem on my Bravada, when i go out in the morning to start she cranks for about 5 to 7 seconds before firing up. if she sits for 30 minutes she is hard to start then too. cranking is normal and she runs great when she starts no misfiring or rough idle. i checked and cleaned the crank sensor, and did a fuel pressure test and maybe im doing it wrong but my test showed 0 KOEO and running i got 55 psi. i revved the engine up to 2k and the needle jumped to 60. that 0 with engine off has me thinking bad fuel pump. i can hear the pump prime every time i turn key to on like normal so maybe i am doing it wrong. what i did to test is removed the "f/pump" relay from fuse box in engine and cranked the engine to relieve the pressure, then u hooked my gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel line right next to the distributor on driver side, replaced the relay and turned key to on. i cycled the key a few times to see if if the needle would move but didnt. any suggestions on where to go from here would help as the winter is approaching and i hate to be stranded if she wont start

Actron/Fuel pressure tester kit CP7818 at AutoZone.com
this is the pressure tester i used

 

bump....

 

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...ernight-86845/

check this out, captain hook is probably one of the most knowledgeable guys on this site. he walked me through step by step what to do when. its a lot easier to give you this link then try explaining and missing out key info

hope this helps

 

UPDATE: i dont know if this helps but i finally got her to start and run, she idles fine but giving her gas she runs rough. i put a pressure test back on and with key on engine off the gauge went to 64psi then back to 0. cranking the engine it reads 50psi and running (when i can get her to run) it reads between 55-60psi

 

bump.....

 

Either the FPR or the fuel pump check valve is not holding pressure.
Dead head test with the fuel pressure gauge is your next step. This is done by connecting it at the fuel filter connection. Pressure must be 73 to 108 psi and it must remain above 55 psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. If it passes that test then the FPR is leaking in the plenum.

 

will it just screw onto the threaded side of the filter like it did on the schrader valve?

 

Nope you will need to pick up some other parts to adapt it. I got mine from a hardware store. If I remember correctly it has to go from 1/4 pipe thread male to 3/8 pipe thread female. I took the fuel filter and the compression gauge with me to ensure I had the correct pieces to make it work. There is an Article in the diy section that explains it

 

how to make it is in the thread i posted....along with everything else you need

 

UPDATE: after dropping the tank and dealing with a broken vent valve adventure i got a new pump in and she fired up and restarted pretty good. im gonna take her for a spin later today she how she does