Got some ABS codes...


C0227 - LF wheel speed sensor Signal erratic
C0243 - Right front isolation seleniod circut shorted
C0247 - Left front isolation seleniod circut shorted
C0253 - Rear isolation seleniod circut Shorted

....After following the flow chart and checking powers and grounds with a test light, its looking like the EBCM is getting replaced. I was thinking Modulemasters.com but im having trouble figureing out what kelsey hayes EBCM i have, Normally i wouldnt care but ModuleMasters can only service certian Kelsey Hayes EBCM's. I have been looking through the GM RPO codes with no luck and tried vin decoding with no luck, so does anybody know where the model number is on theses EBCM's?

Also I read something about the EBCM ground that attaches to the radiator support becoming loose or corroded, Would anybody happen to have a pic of that ground wire location or is willing to take a pic for me?

Ill try to post a pic up of the ABS block in a while so that hopefully someone can id which model it is....

 

Look at the pictures on ModuleMasters website. They detail how to identify your EBCM model.

 

yea, i think its the 310 module....to the junkyard i go.....

Any body with a pic of the ground wire so that i can clean it up while im under the hood?

 

I don't have a picture on hand, just because it is a bit of a pain to get to that spot. I had the same thing happen with my ABS unit, luckily I had the kelsey hayes 325 model that they actually serviced. You will need to take the entire air filter housing off (the part that is a pain) and you will notice on the back of the radiator that there are two black ground wires bolted to the support, really you cant miss them, they are the only thing bolted to it. The one that goes to the ABS unit is the lower of the two, though it probably wouldn't hurt to go ahead and clean both, mine were pretty rusty. You will have to remove the drivers side headlight to get to the other side of the bolts to remove them, but once you do that it's a pretty easy task.

Unfortunately cleaning my ground didn't solve the problem (C0265 open relay) From the time I shipped it out to module masters (they operate out of Idaho I believe) I received my rebuilt unit in a week. Well, actually it looks like a different unit than I sent in, because I actually marked mine with a sharpie. But really who cares, its as long as it works. With all the snow recently I had plenty of opportunities to test out the ABS and it works beautifully. For a fraction of the price of a new unit and with a 5 year warranty you really can't beat module masters, but it just sucks your model isn't included. You may want to check though because they sell refurbished units for pretty cheap, maybe they have some 310's

 

yea, i might just head to my local junkyard and pull a module, i was looking at mine last night and it seems pretty staight forward to remove ( 4 torx bolts), but if i cant find one then ill go to module masters, junkyard=$30 Vs. MM=$130....ill try the junkyard for now and maybe ill try to rebild my old one by checking for broken solder joints or corrosion.

 

You are right, there are just four torx bolts, it is pretty easy to remove from the vehicle. When you do remove it, you will see six solenoid valve looking things sticking up. I would cover that area with some tin foil to protect the electrical components inside. I was able to find one unit at any local junkyard, but when I installed it, it made my ABS pump run continuously even with the car off (Another known problem with kelsey hayes units) so I would be wary, you never know what issues an EBCM from a junkyard might have.

I had the same idea... I wanted to replace the broken relay inside the EBCM myself. All I have to say is good luck getting that thing apart! I almost broke the housing trying to pry it open. Even when you take all of the screws out, there seems to be a very strong adhesive holding the two halves together.

 

yea, call me lucky but my local junkyard allows you to return or exchange anything within 3 days, so if it doesnt work ill just go get another one and i wont be out $30. and you said that you attemped to replace your relay, how did that work out? were you able to acces the relay? do you think a heat gun would help soften the adheasive holding the plastic cover on?

 

Not sure, I never got that far. I figured I would just go ahead and pay to get one repaired rather than accidentally destroy the one I had and be forced to buy a new one. But yeah I would imagine that would be the best way to go about it. It may be a little more trouble than it's worth but since they wont repair your model then you might want to give it a shot. Although, I would think that they do not repair that model because of certain issues that may prevent a successful repair.

 

Here's how I took mine apart, to replace a relay also. With a box knife carefully cut in between the cover and the black plastic, all the way round, and then you will be able to open it up. you will need to mark the position of the coils before you unsolder them and mix them up, and then unsolder the connector pins on the board, you will need a solder suction tool. Lift it off, and unsolder the Siemens relay same way. BEFORE YOU BEGIN, CAR SWITCHED OFF, AND REMOVE THE BIG 60A ABS FUSE UNDER THE HOOD FUSE BOX.
Good Luck. I done it you can also.

 

FYI I just did this on my Kelsey-Hayes 325 EBCM. I replaced the original SIEMENS T72MD5121-12-16 relay with a Tyco Connectivity TNS5D1-12 (cost $1.68/each) and ~$9 shipping from digikey.com. Jameco has a similar one at part number JS12-1 made by NAIS?AROMAT for $1.39/each and shipping. I am putting together a how to EBCM relay DIY. Is there a place for me to post it here? It involves allot of desoldering once the EBCM is opened, some heat sink compound and high temp silicone for reassembly a solder iron desolder pump/desolder wick, of course a new relay and some time and patience.