Did the sensor ever work right? If not, then the hub could have had a defective sensor from the git-go.

 

The old sensor stopped working after the ball joint job. I bought a new one, (just the sensor, not hub+sensor) which is the one that is currently in the truck and also not working, I think. So maybe the new sensor I bought was defective out of the box. Like I said, I wish I had tested it out of the box. It has been in the truck (not functional) for at least a month (I'd have to check back in this thread to find out for sure), so there's no way I'd be able to get a refund.

 

Try messing with the clearance and see if you can get the output up. The infinite resistance doesn't make sense if you are getting an output. Are you sure you had the leads correct on your multimeter when you tested the resistance?

 

Do you mean that I'm supposed to probe the terminal connectors with a certain probe when measuring resistance? In other words, there's a wrong/right way to probe the connector with the pos/neg leads? I thought when measuring resistance it didn't matter. Also, the mV reading I was getting showed before I even spun the wheel. Not sure if there's such a thing as "natural" voltage in voltage measurements that small, but spinning the wheel did not have any impact on the voltmeter readout. Just to be sure (I'm a noob and all), I had the range on the voltmeter set on 200mV AC, that's correct, right? So I wouldn't say I was getting an "output" from the sensor necessarily.

By the way Swartlkk, I sent you a PM a little while back to see if you could change the title of this thread to "ABS Light After Replacing Ball Joints". Just wanted to make the title more clear, since I messed up when I first posted it. Anyway, thanks for the help.

 

Most multimeters require that you change where the leads plug into the multimeter when measuring resistance vs measuring voltage. That's what I'm trying to say.

 

This: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Mu...10709/14521541 is the multimeter that I have. Just a Walmart cheapie. I don't think you have to change the leads to measure ohms/volts. Or I've been doing it wrong the whole time.

Thanks for changing the title.

 

Yeah that should work with it in one spot. Just checking. I didn't go out and look at mine either before commenting, but I always smack myself in the forehead when I realize I had been testing for something with the leads in incorrectly.

 

Today I installed a new hub assembly with a preinstalled abs sensor. I tested the new sensor before starting the work, and it checked out okay. After I finished, I turned the key on and the ABS light was still on. I used the Autoenginuity tool to clear the code and all the history codes, and tried again. The same code came back, C0221. I then took the truck for a drive, and after two minutes or so of driving the ABS light flashed a couple of times, then went off. It stayed off for maybe 30 seconds, then came back on and stayed on. When I got home I checked for codes again, and now there was a C0221, along with a C0223 as a history code. The C0223 definitely wasn't there before, since I had cleared all the codes. What exactly does "history" mean anyway if the code pretty much set as the same time as C0221, which the scan tool said was the one that was causing the MIL? So now I'm thinking that either the connector at the EBCM is bad, or the connector for the sensor itself. I'll have to check the wiring more thoroughly as well. I wonder if any of the more experienced members here could point me in the right direction? This issue is pretty frustrating.

update 7/7: Today I was planning on doing more testing on the wiring. I put the key in the ignition in order to unlock the steering to gain better access in the wheel well, and noticed that the ABS light was off. I took it for a drive, and it didn't come on. Later on I drove it about 25 miles or so, and the light remained off. So I'm not sure why, but it seems to be okay now. The only thing I can think of was that the connector to the EBCM was loose or something, because that's the only thing I touched between yesterday, when the light was still on, and today when it was off. Hopefully the wiring at the connector isn't loose and causes an intermittent ABS light.