ABS + Parking Brake Stay On
#1
09-29-2018, 10:36 PM
ABS + Parking Brake Stay On
Just bought a 2001 Chevy Blazer, well maintained with 170k.
Abs and parking brake stay on, was told it was a bad ground.
I’m curious as to what input i could get as far as all considerations are concerned. Maybe get a comprehensive list in one place. A lot of information seems to be spread about. If anyone has any input, i’d like to start a checklist and work from most likely to least likely possibilities.
SO! Anyone have any weird to mundane experience with this? I’d love to hear it. Will keep updated as i work through it, planning on taking pictures as well, i just moved to idaho and have few tools and little money to work with. Sooo throw anything at me. Does not affect functionality and reservoir is full. Would like to DIY and don’t mind buying tools to make the job easier on me. Let me know what you think should go in the box
Abs and parking brake stay on, was told it was a bad ground.
I’m curious as to what input i could get as far as all considerations are concerned. Maybe get a comprehensive list in one place. A lot of information seems to be spread about. If anyone has any input, i’d like to start a checklist and work from most likely to least likely possibilities.
SO! Anyone have any weird to mundane experience with this? I’d love to hear it. Will keep updated as i work through it, planning on taking pictures as well, i just moved to idaho and have few tools and little money to work with. Sooo throw anything at me. Does not affect functionality and reservoir is full. Would like to DIY and don’t mind buying tools to make the job easier on me. Let me know what you think should go in the box
Last edited by Darian Fuller; 09-29-2018 at 10:41 PM.
#2
09-30-2018, 03:38 AM
I had to remove my radiator support for an engine exchange. I haven't tight the ground wire well enough and had ABS control coming off/on (not sure on a parking brake though). Tightening the connector solved my problem. The loosen connector I had is attached at the inner, driver's side of the radiator support, a little down to the headlamp clips. Check out that wire. If You don't find the connector location, I could post a photo.
Good luck
Good luck
#4
09-30-2018, 02:08 PM
I had to remove my radiator support for an engine exchange. I haven't tight the ground wire well enough and had ABS control coming off/on (not sure on a parking brake though). Tightening the connector solved my problem. The loosen connector I had is attached at the inner, driver's side of the radiator support, a little down to the headlamp clips. Check out that wire. If You don't find the connector location, I could post a photo.
Good luck
Good luck
Last edited by Darian Fuller; 09-30-2018 at 02:20 PM.
#5
09-30-2018, 02:41 PM
It's the black wire next to the green clip. Same height, an inch toward center of vehicle. I went under the hood to take a photo, but it's the air filter to be dismantled first. Anyway, I assume You found the right one.
I've learned through this forum that ABS unit has some common problems with soldering joints (haha same goes for air bag sensors). I haven't experienced that problem yet so cannot say much.
IDK if a damaged ABS sensor in a wheel hub triggers in the red dash brake indicator. Might be worth checking too.
If You are planning to fix the soldering joints, make sure You're also get a quality soldering flux. I've been using a several different brands, and highly recommend Chip Quik SMD291.
I've learned through this forum that ABS unit has some common problems with soldering joints (haha same goes for air bag sensors). I haven't experienced that problem yet so cannot say much.
IDK if a damaged ABS sensor in a wheel hub triggers in the red dash brake indicator. Might be worth checking too.
If You are planning to fix the soldering joints, make sure You're also get a quality soldering flux. I've been using a several different brands, and highly recommend Chip Quik SMD291.
#6
09-30-2018, 05:10 PM
It's the black wire next to the green clip. Same height, an inch toward center of vehicle. I went under the hood to take a photo, but it's the air filter to be dismantled first. Anyway, I assume You found the right one.
I've learned through this forum that ABS unit has some common problems with soldering joints (haha same goes for air bag sensors). I haven't experienced that problem yet so cannot say much.
IDK if a damaged ABS sensor in a wheel hub triggers in the red dash brake indicator. Might be worth checking too.
If You are planning to fix the soldering joints, make sure You're also get a quality soldering flux. I've been using a several different brands, and highly recommend Chip Quik SMD291.
I've learned through this forum that ABS unit has some common problems with soldering joints (haha same goes for air bag sensors). I haven't experienced that problem yet so cannot say much.
IDK if a damaged ABS sensor in a wheel hub triggers in the red dash brake indicator. Might be worth checking too.
If You are planning to fix the soldering joints, make sure You're also get a quality soldering flux. I've been using a several different brands, and highly recommend Chip Quik SMD291.
appreciate it. It seems the ebcm is the most likely culprit. Maybe the larger sensor that i found grease in. Both will need a soldering iron so looks like that and an abs ready reader will be the first things i get. Any recommendations on a cheap usable soldering iron will be appreciated, napas down the street and they have a sale on an 80 dollar one... tho a temp controlled one seems difficult to find unless the descriptions are misleading.. or maybe the 5-40 watt one they have will be enough.i plan on replacing the driver hub, may do both to get it out of the way. Dunno if the sensor is the wire attached in the picture but if the lights go off then i’m golden
Last edited by Darian Fuller; 09-30-2018 at 05:15 PM.
#9
10-01-2018, 01:30 AM
Thank you, just educated myself on flux
appreciate it. It seems the ebcm is the most likely culprit. Maybe the larger sensor that i found grease in. Both will need a soldering iron so looks like that and an abs ready reader will be the first things i get. Any recommendations on a cheap usable soldering iron will be appreciated, napas down the street and they have a sale on an 80 dollar one... tho a temp controlled one seems difficult to find unless the descriptions are misleading.. or maybe the 5-40 watt one they have will be enough.i plan on replacing the driver hub, may do both to get it out of the way. Dunno if the sensor is the wire attached in the picture but if the lights go off then i’m golden
Depending of what You plan to do, You have to choose an adequate power. 18W is for really small electronic job, 40W should cover more of the situations, but can't heat up a medium+ chunks of metal (copper tracks) efficiently. 80W+ should cover most of the situations, but yet w/o temperature control the soldering tip will get burned (worn off) too quickly and would be extreme difficult to do anything with it. Apart the tip wear, the flux evaporates much faster and You overheat the glue holding copper tracks so the copper separates from base... A transformer soldering iron may be an option here - Your soldering tip gets heated when You pull the trigger and cold when You release - in comparison to the pencil ones, where the soldering tip is constantly heated up by a heater.
Personally, for years I stick to a Weller WSD soldering irons in my workshop. But it's an electronic workshop, not the mechanic one and I run it for living.
Oh, and one more thing - if You decide to get a pencil one, get the one with a flat (screwdriver) soldering tip. The "needles" may look tempting, but a heat transfer from a screwdriver soldering tip is more efficient, so the soldering just handles better.
Last edited by Mike.308; 10-01-2018 at 01:51 AM.
#10
10-03-2018, 12:16 PM
My advice on cheap soldering iron may be the only one - You get what You've paid for.
Depending of what You plan to do, You have to choose an adequate power. 18W is for really small electronic job, 40W should cover more of the situations, but can't heat up a medium+ chunks of metal (copper tracks) efficiently. 80W+ should cover most of the situations, but yet w/o temperature control the soldering tip will get burned (worn off) too quickly and would be extreme difficult to do anything with it. Apart the tip wear, the flux evaporates much faster and You overheat the glue holding copper tracks so the copper separates from base... A transformer soldering iron may be an option here - Your soldering tip gets heated when You pull the trigger and cold when You release - in comparison to the pencil ones, where the soldering tip is constantly heated up by a heater.
Personally, for years I stick to a Weller WSD soldering irons in my workshop. But it's an electronic workshop, not the mechanic one and I run it for living.
Oh, and one more thing - if You decide to get a pencil one, get the one with a flat (screwdriver) soldering tip. The "needles" may look tempting, but a heat transfer from a screwdriver soldering tip is more efficient, so the soldering just handles better.
Depending of what You plan to do, You have to choose an adequate power. 18W is for really small electronic job, 40W should cover more of the situations, but can't heat up a medium+ chunks of metal (copper tracks) efficiently. 80W+ should cover most of the situations, but yet w/o temperature control the soldering tip will get burned (worn off) too quickly and would be extreme difficult to do anything with it. Apart the tip wear, the flux evaporates much faster and You overheat the glue holding copper tracks so the copper separates from base... A transformer soldering iron may be an option here - Your soldering tip gets heated when You pull the trigger and cold when You release - in comparison to the pencil ones, where the soldering tip is constantly heated up by a heater.
Personally, for years I stick to a Weller WSD soldering irons in my workshop. But it's an electronic workshop, not the mechanic one and I run it for living.
Oh, and one more thing - if You decide to get a pencil one, get the one with a flat (screwdriver) soldering tip. The "needles" may look tempting, but a heat transfer from a screwdriver soldering tip is more efficient, so the soldering just handles better.
update: pulled an ebcm from a 2001 chevy s10, got it for 6 bucks
. Pretty sure jimmy s10 and blazers use the same part?? Sadly, after putting it all together, the pump stays oncontinuously even when the cars off. It does turn off the parking brake light but leaves the abs light on. Pulled the fuse, i’m thinking it may be a stuck wheel speed sensor (Anyone know an easy way to diagnose that without a code reader? Pulling the sensor?) and the ebcm i had was bad. Thinking the used one i installed is failing or good and the sensor is keeping the pump on... i’m not sure but now i have a spare to play with. Hopefully the pump itself isn’t bad.
side note: the wheel bearing on the front driver side needs replacing, which hints to me that the sensor is keeping the pump on. Curious if anyones heard of that before. Its just so odd that everything works... no spongey brake no difficulty braking just typical signs of someone pulling an abs fuse rn. Didn’t try driving it with the abs pump running.
Last edited by Darian Fuller; 10-03-2018 at 12:22 PM.