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ac compressor repair

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Old 05-04-2009, 04:35 PM
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Default ac compressor repair

Has anyone ever open up the compressor and changed the seal in the center. It leaks on mine i was wondering if it is fairly simple or if I should get a used compressor
 
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:07 PM
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I gotta say, I have never heard of this or done this myself... I would recommend getting a new compressor, drier and orifice tube. I believe it will save you from more headaches down the road.
 
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:17 PM
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Ive found the seals online, i planned on chaning the orifice tube since its only like a buck anyway. Dont really see why the drier needs to be changed though its only a metal can and the compressor didnt fail only the seal in the middle did
 
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:23 PM
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Heck, go for it and see what happens... post your results.
 
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:34 PM
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Yeah I was hoping I could find some1 out there that has at least taken it apart i found a schematic but I cant tell if its pressed together and bolted or just bolted. I definetly cant do it if its pressed.
 
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:53 PM
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You found the right guy.. I do 2 or 3 a week in the busy months..both V-5 compressors and HT, and HD.The HT-6 compressor is bolted together- the first thing I do is scribe a straight line anywhere on it across all four parts- the front head, the front cylinder, the rear cylinder and the rear head...that way you can't go wrong bolting it all back together- it can be off 120 or 240 degrees if you don't do this..

The clutch and pulley and coil need to come off- use the designated pullers for those- then there are 6 13mm through bolts you can zip out with an air gun- then I use a chain vice grip and a vice to wiggle the heads from the cylinders, then to wiggle the cylinders from each other- being careful not to drop out any pistons from the axial wobble plate...then I use emory cloth and clean all corrosion off the sealing surfaces (this is what caused the belly leakers to begin with) then I lub up new o-rings and snap all the pieces back together- using the bolts as alignment pins, then I always install a new shaft seal- and then sequentially torque the 6 through bolts back (16 Nm or so) and re-install the clutch, pulley and coil.. and put on the truck-- Usually takes me about 1/2 hour- depending on interruptions...

I don't change driers for just a leak- no need- never had a comeback- and have done probably 6 -700 in my 20 years of a/c life...
 

Last edited by brcidd; 05-04-2009 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:06 PM
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thanks for the info,what puller is used to remove the clutch assembly
 
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:36 AM
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Autozone has a tool kit in their loan a tool program that will do the whole front end- clutch, pulley and coil- just ask them--- or if you do enough, you can buy your own tools from Master Cool dealers- just google clutch removal/installer tool.
 
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:34 AM
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I see the claw like puller to take the acutal pulley off,but which pulley socket thing is used to get the clutch plate off?
 
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:31 PM
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Ok all done and it seems to be holding fine, only time will tell if my repair worked well though. Compressor looked great inside no rust,no sludge,and pistons were smooth. It seems to be pumping good without leaking im not positive my clutch plate is seated enough, but its engaging and running so I will leave it for now and see.
 


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